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Stock valve cover w/440Source roller-rockers & stealths

Grabbergreendream

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I searched the forums this week & found nothing definitive as to my question...
I have a 440 being built & am using 440Source stealth heads & also they're roller rocker assembly(1.5), all of which is at the engine shop. The cam isn't radical, a tad over .500.
Cam specs here, fwiw:
http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCard.aspx?partNumber=60303
What I'd like to do is use some stock steel valve covers I have here at home. They are actually from a 73' 400 BB. I know i need to move the baffles up at the very least...

My question is has anyone ever done this exact combination?
I found lotsa conflicting info about Cranes, Iskys, even ductile iron rollers... But nothing on Source roller rockers w/stock covers than can prove these covers work.
I can't test fit these till the builder gets things assembled to verify, I just want to know if I'm wasting my time trying to make these VC's work...I want to keep the engine stock appearing as much as possible.
Thanks in advance.
John
 
Hi,

I used the same topend combination on my dragboat engine. (it's a 383 stroked to 438). I just checked a 1970 style factory VC and "no". All the aluminum rockers are rather bulky. But there is hope. Check out ::
https://www.medicemfg.com/products_get.php?c=Valve Cover Spacers - Mopar

They sell VC spacers. I'm doing 440 build for my car and would like that stock/stealth look if possible.

Not all Mopars have wheels

IMG_0786.jpeg
 
I just went through this, but with Isky ductile iron rocker arms. I don't know your specific answer, but this is what I've learned.
a. You sort of have to "see if they fit" & the best way is to lay them down on the engine, with all the valve gear in place, with no gaskets.
b. If you have clearance problems, you have a few options
1. Run 2 sets of valve cover gaskets & longer bolts (glue them together).
2. See if you can determine contact area(s) in the baffles & drill holes just there....leave the baffles in place except for the clearance holes. If you remove the baffles completely, the PCV will suck oil into the motor.
3. Summit has a set of no-name chrome valve covers, with baffles, that have extra clearance for sure & they're roughly $50-$60 or something cheap. Just chromed stamped steel, but more clearance.
 
I’m running stock valve covers on my stroked B engine with Crane roller rockers on Edelbrock heads with a .501 lift Comp cam. Baffles are still in the covers, no interference.
 
I planned on modifying the baffles in these 400 VC's by detaching them & moving them up. I guess It wont hurt them to do so, and check later when the top end is assebmbled. I just didnt want to waste my time. These covers area of concern after the baffles, would be the ends as they taper down twords the head.
Also, as much as I'd like to keep the stock covers, I'd buy MP covers before spacers. I do not like any of the chrome steel covers, myself...
 
I’m running stock valve covers on my stroked B engine with Crane roller rockers on Edelbrock heads with a .501 lift Comp cam. Baffles are still in the covers, no interference.
Wow! Cool.... Which covers if you dont mind me askin?
Maybe there's hope...
Thank you.
Guess it'll be trial & error...
 
Wow! Cool.... Which covers if you dont mind me askin?
Maybe there's hope...
Thank you.
Guess it'll be trial & error...
Just stock covers from a 69 383 Polara. I’ll see if I can get a picture later. I did add a piece of tubing to the right side cover so that I could use the earlier PCV.
 
I realize every combo is a little different, but any info helps. I have nothing to lose modifying mine to try... They aren't valuable 70' 6 pack covers...
A pic would be cool to see. Thanks.
 
No one can answer with certainty if a stock unmodified vc will work. I will say with certainty, you can get them to work if you are willing to modify the baffle. If they hit, it will be the rocker adjusters. If you can locate the interference, a reasonably hole drilled in the baffle at those locations will be effective while maintaining the integrity and effectiveness of the baffle.
 
Thank You

Finally found a thread with factory valve covers on Edelbrock Heads
 
I just went through this, but with Isky ductile iron rocker arms. I don't know your specific answer, but this is what I've learned.
a. You sort of have to "see if they fit" & the best way is to lay them down on the engine, with all the valve gear in place, with no gaskets.
b. If you have clearance problems, you have a few options
1. Run 2 sets of valve cover gaskets & longer bolts (glue them together).
2. See if you can determine contact area(s) in the baffles & drill holes just there....leave the baffles in place except for the clearance holes. If you remove the baffles completely, the PCV will suck oil into the motor.
3. Summit has a set of no-name chrome valve covers, with baffles, that have extra clearance for sure & they're roughly $50-$60 or something cheap. Just chromed stamped steel, but more clearance.
I like the #3 solution. (Tho I did #2. Needed painted 4-bolt covers for maxwedge decals).
 
I searched the forums this week & found nothing definitive as to my question...
I have a 440 being built & am using 440Source stealth heads & also they're roller rocker assembly(1.5), all of which is at the engine shop. The cam isn't radical, a tad over .500.
Cam specs here, fwiw:
http://www.lunatipower.com/CamSpecCard.aspx?partNumber=60303
What I'd like to do is use some stock steel valve covers I have here at home. They are actually from a 73' 400 BB. I know i need to move the baffles up at the very least...

My question is has anyone ever done this exact combination?
I found lotsa conflicting info about Cranes, Iskys, even ductile iron rollers... But nothing on Source roller rockers w/stock covers than can prove these covers work.
I can't test fit these till the builder gets things assembled to verify, I just want to know if I'm wasting my time trying to make these VC's work...I want to keep the engine stock appearing as much as possible.
Thanks in advance.
John
Did that with my stock ‘68 383 covers and Harland sharp roller rockers and Stealth heads. Around .550 lift. It was close but fits fine with minor mods. I just marked baffles with dykem and drilled 5/8 holes where adjusters hit.
 
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