Storing Engines

[Dibbons]

I pulled the 318 (hydraulic camshaft) a couple of years ago to complete the rotisserie restoration on the 1965 Formula S. I was wondering what toll the storage has take on the valve springs, being the fact that a couple of them, at least, have been in the open position for a long time now. The stock re-build was performed about ten years ago now.

I was kind of hoping, perhaps the lifters would bleed down after a while and relieve those couple of springs of some of the open valve pressure they were under.

I guess it would be best to remove the rocker shafts altogether, but you know how it is, a two week repaint turns into a two-year fiasco. Thank you.

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Depends how well it's been stored. If your unsure about it yank the intake, un-bolt the rockers and replace the lifters, easier now than later. I would be more worried about your cylinder walls being rusted up. Never said how many miles since the rebuild.

 

[Dibbons]

Since the rebuild, we drove the vehicle from California down here to Mexico (about 1,500 miles) and then back and forth to a couple of local cars show. Otherwise, just parked and waiting.

 

[69a100]

Why not just take a whammy bar and roll the crank some to give those open springs a break??? Good Luck

 

[#41]

Your valve springs really only wear out due to repeated cycling, not sitting compressed.

 

[Nate S]

I cranked up a 241 (early Mopar v-8) after it sat for 30 years. Drove it the next 10 years and when I sold it was still using the factory cam, lifters and springs. I wouldn’t worry a bit, unless water is involved.

 

[493 Mike]

The 440 in my wagon sat for 18 years in my unheated storage garage. I went home one Friday took a ratchet and socket and it rolled easily. Less than a week it was running. Later that summer it turned a 12.68 at a test and tune night. Now it's my spare.
Mike

 

[rumblefish360]

Your valve springs really only wear out due to repeated cycling, not sitting compressed.

Bingo! Winner! Bullseye!

Before running the engine again, or even install if it makes it easier, pull the distributor & intermediate shaft and prime the oil system with a cordless screw gun with the oil pump priming tool. Have a helper slowly rotate the engine while the oil pump is turning. Rotate the engine several time to get the oil around the crank & cam bearings to get the oil up to the rocker shafts and to all points on the lifters.

Then before installing the engine, inspect and replace all the basic tune up parts. I would also add a bottle of break in oil just to help the engine a bit longer.

 

[Slap Stick]

The engine pictured is the original engine?

 

[Dibbons]

No, a '65 Barracuda Formula S used a 273; previous owner installed a 318 (1979) but retained the 273 Carter AFB, chrome air cleaner. It has a factory '66 intake manifold. The original finned valve covers are being painted, those on engine are serving as dust covers only.

 

[Slap Stick]

Okay, that splains the LA 318. Thanks.
I'm no engine builder but I would do as suggested. Good oil and prime the oiling system and fire it up.

 

[Dibbons]

Pulled the plugs, squirted some oil down the holes, half spin, repeat.

Number 5 spark plug has a funny colored deposit on the electrodes. I assume it was moisture during storage that resulted in that substance. Not worried about it at all. The other 7 plugs appear normal.

 

[69a100]

Wire brush #5 and re-check your gap. Good Luck

 

[rumblefish360]

That’s exactly what that is. The humidity got in there a tad.