suggestions

[benno440]

working on the 505 stroker started degreeing the cam i got perfect TDC and i checked the max lift which came in perfect but the cam card did not come with the cam, is there anything else i really need to be checking with the cam if so should i be hunting them down to get a cam card whic i thought were unique to the cam???

 

[lewtot184]

do you know what cam you have?

 

[benno440]

yes i just dont have all the details for it, i have lift and duration at .50 i have the lobe sep. the adv duration etc. but none of the important infor thats on the card.

thjis is all i have:
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 300/305
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 250/255
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .540/.540
LSA/ICL: 108/104
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 3000-6800

whic is just copied from there website

 

[lewtot184]

thats somewhat of a hot hydraulic. ICL (104) is installed centerline for the #1 intake lobe. thats what your shooting for.

 

[benno440]

thanks lewtot, if you dont mind shedding some light on easiest way to check this? i have all the tools to do this, i have watched a few videso they are just not very explainatory.
i set the timing marks on crank and cam gears facing each other i setup a piston stopper(this was with heads off) i ran crank around until hit i came back with 57 degrees, i then turned opposite way until piston stop which gave me 0 degrees i halfed this to get 28.5 so i removed piston stop and set crank to 28.5 then put degree wheel back on at 0 degrees.the pointer on the cam gear is now pointing up does this mean it is 180 out?? or is that true TDC?.

i then put a solid lifter in intake on #1 piston and set the dial gauge up i turned crank until it hit max lift which gave me the .540 lift that was advertised so i know thats right so all i need to do now is check the installed centreline like you said?

thanks in advance bud. very grateful

 

[RustyRatRod]

You just copied from whose web site? We probably have 500 cams IN STOCK and I bet there's a good chance we have that one. What brand please?

 

[benno440]

thats lunati rusty i copied from the lunati website for that cam, the part number is #10230908

 

[lewtot184]

this is what i do. i use the dial indicator to find tdc not a positive stop. when bringing #1 piston up to tdc you'll get some piston rock. i use a two .011 feeler gauges inserted in the piston gap just above the top ring to take any wobble out of the piston to get an accurate tdc. once thats found then install the degree wheel with the pointer at zero. cam and crank gear should be dot to dot to avoid any future confusion. rotate the engine over to where you read .300 lobe lift on the dail indicator. write down this number. slowly continue to rotate the engine until you get .300 lobe lift on the closing side. write this number down. add the two numbers, .300 opening and .300 closing, and divide by two. this should give the installed centerline of 104. clear as mud?

 

[benno440]

even better, clear as a crystal, thanks bloke, will let you know how i go tomorrow

- - - Updated - - -

and 1 more thing if it is not 104, what is an acceptable amount? and if it do i need to drill out gear and put in a bushing?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I say if it's off more than two degrees.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Yep, Lew has the recipe down. And I agree with Rusty that if you are within 2 degrees I wouldn't worry about it. Corrections are usually done with offset bushings and a sprocket that allows the installation of said bushing.

 

[benno440]

good news checked the intake centreline cam said 104 degrees it came in at 103degrees so im pretty happy, should have the big girl running by the weekend will put it to youtube and upload a link for you guys

cheers for the help as always

 

[lewtot184]

good news checked the intake centreline cam said 104 degrees it came in at 103degrees so im pretty happy, should have the big girl running by the weekend will put it to youtube and upload a link for you guys

cheers for the help as always

your good to go on the centerline,.....but! if your using an adjustable rocker arm you need to mock up one cylinder using the solid tappet, taking out all lash to simulate the way the engine will run, and slowly cycle the engine around and check for coil bind and rocker geometry. i bet if you have adjustable rockers the net lift at the valve will be closer to .570 than .540. of course a dial indicator on the spring retainer on the spring retainer will verify lift at the valve. take the time to do this for peace of mind and safety sake.

 

[benno440]

your good to go on the centerline,.....but! if your using an adjustable rocker arm you need to mock up one cylinder using the solid tappet, taking out all lash to simulate the way the engine will run, and slowly cycle the engine around and check for coil bind and rocker geometry. i bet if you have adjustable rockers the net lift at the valve will be closer to .570 than .540. of course a dial indicator on the spring retainer on the spring retainer will verify lift at the valve. take the time to do this for peace of mind and safety sake.

will do.
do i need to check piston to valve you reckon? if everything else is right it should be right also?? (first time ever doing this)

 

[lewtot184]

will do.
do i need to check piston to valve you reckon? if everything else is right it should be right also?? (first time ever doing this)

always check piston to valve, using the solid tappet, even if you have valve reliefs. long duration aggressive cams open the valves sooner and with higher lift. the intake valve gets very close to the piston during opening and the piston chases the exhaust valve during closing.

 

[benno440]

is there an easy way to do it?

 

[lewtot184]

is there an easy way to do it?

just use some clay or playdough where the valve reliefs are and rotate the engine with the valve train attached. pull the head and measure the thickness of the depressions in the clay. i usually get a little **** about it. i put the depressed clay in the freezer for a little bit and then measure to a better reading.

 

[benno440]

just use some clay or playdough where the valve reliefs are and rotate the engine with the valve train attached. pull the head and measure the thickness of the depressions in the clay. i usually get a little **** about it. i put the depressed clay in the freezer for a little bit and then measure to a better reading.

is there an acceptable limit on this mate?

 

[lewtot184]

because its a hydraulic cam i'd shoot for .100" clearance. you have to make allowances for the pre-load on the tappet in case you ever float the springs. .100" should be safe.