Swapping the Inland 4 speed for the Hurst Competition plus

[Rocketman]

Just bought my GTX with the inland 4 speed and I would like to change to the Hurst competition plus that is on sale at Year one:

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1966-74-a-b-e-body/w4969k

Can the change out be done all from the top?

Also, I have a manifold leak on the elephant ear exhaust, will probably be switching to a header this week, is there a market for the ears once removed?

Thanks

 

[Richard Cranium]

You'll have to swap it out from above & below. The most difficult part will be removing the aluminum mounting pad as the screws seem to weld themselves in. Does Year One really offer the kit with that ugly square boot?

On a related note, I've heard of someone who will adapt the inland handle to the Hurst box, that is, if you want to retain the stock look.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Looks like they charge a bonus for selling all the kit together. I had to buy my shifter new on e-bay and then later buy the linkage and rest of it new, also on e-bay . Buy it now. It paid to shop for a while as I got it for less money. Had a $%#&(* of a time with reverse linkage as the directions were very sketchy.....................................MO

 

[Pops1967GTX]

You'll have to swap it out from above & below. The most difficult part will be removing the aluminum mounting pad as the screws seem to weld themselves in. Does Year One really offer the kit with that ugly square boot?

On a related note, I've heard of someone who will adapt the inland handle to the Hurst box, that is, if you want to retain the stock look.

Richard is correct.....My Inland shifter mechinism needs a rebuild.... I am using Hurst shifter mechinism modified to accept Inland shifter handles... I just can't used the Lock out part of the Inland Handle..... Brewers was very helpful with install information.......


http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=50

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=67810.0

 

[ws27]

Richard is correct.....My Inland shifter mechinism needs a rebuild.... I am using Hurst shifter mechinism modified to accept Inland shifter handles... I just can't used the Lock out part of the Inland Handle..... Brewers was very helpful with install information.......


http://www.brewersperformance.com/products.asp?cat=50

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=67810.0

How did that go? My inland is broken on my vert and I have to either fix the old, swap out another Inland, or install the Hurst adapter from Brewers. I have all three options laying on my work bench and can't decide what to do.

 

[Meep-Meep]

What's all the fuss about those Inland shifters anyway? I got the Inland in my Charger and it works quite well.

Cranium uncovers an important detail about those 3/8-16 flat head allen screws. There is quite a bit of surface area clamping but only (I think) a 5/16" hex to take them out. When - not if - you end up stripping the hex with the allen wrench it will be time to drop the tailshaft low enough to hopefully drill the screws out with a 5/16" LEFT HAND drill bit. The larger bit the better but you will have to be careful to not go too deep. The idea is for the bit to grab the soft steel screw, and by doing so, it will apply enough force to back it out of the hole. I have done this on the mill but never under the car so not sure of the access.

 

[Rocketman]

What's all the fuss about those Inland shifters anyway? I got the Inland in my Charger and it works quite well.

Cranium uncovers an important detail about those 3/8-16 flat head allen screws. There is quite a bit of surface area clamping but only (I think) a 5/16" hex to take them out. When - not if - you end up stripping the hex with the allen wrench it will be time to drop the tailshaft low enough to hopefully drill the screws out with a 5/16" LEFT HAND drill bit. The larger bit the better but you will have to be careful to not go too deep. The idea is for the bit to grab the soft steel screw, and by doing so, it will apply enough force to back it out of the hole. I have done this on the mill but never under the car so not sure of the access.

This shifter works fine with no issues. My Dad says the hurst will shorten the shift and I think he just likes the white ball better. I have to admit the inland reminds me of a truck shifter.

 

[MarPar]

What's all the fuss about those Inland shifters anyway? I got the Inland in my Charger and it works quite well.

Cranium uncovers an important detail about those 3/8-16 flat head allen screws. There is quite a bit of surface area clamping but only (I think) a 5/16" hex to take them out. When - not if - you end up stripping the hex with the allen wrench it will be time to drop the tailshaft low enough to hopefully drill the screws out with a 5/16" LEFT HAND drill bit. The larger bit the better but you will have to be careful to not go too deep. The idea is for the bit to grab the soft steel screw, and by doing so, it will apply enough force to back it out of the hole. I have done this on the mill but never under the car so not sure of the access.

hey Meeps, {and im thinking out loud here} any way to put anti-seize or similar product so the bolt will come out without stripping?? or will it not make much of a difference?

 

[wannadrag]

hey Meeps, {and im thinking out loud here} any way to put anti-seize or similar product so the bolt will come out without stripping?? or will it not make much of a difference?

Another engineer that should kicked in the a$$,would of it been so hard to make the plate a little thicker and just recess the hole and use a hex head bolt.

 

[Cranky]

Not sure what kind of bushings the HC+ shifters but back in the 70's we put bronze bushings in place of the nylon/plastic ones. It transmitted more vibration up through the stick but it usually meant firmer shifts. And don't forget to adjust the stops on the shifter.....and I also like using the gripped T handle. I've bruised the palm of my hand too many times using a ball after a day at the track.

 

[Rocketman]

Not sure what kind of bushings the HC+ shifters but back in the 70's we put bronze bushings in place of the nylon/plastic ones. It transmitted more vibration up through the stick but it usually meant firmer shifts. And don't forget to adjust the stops on the shifter.....and I also like using the gripped T handle. I've bruised the palm of my hand too many times using a ball after a day at the track.

I went out and drove the Inland today and decided to let her go in town, thank god the city cop was an old high school friend:3gears:

 

[Budnicks]

Just bought my GTX with the inland 4 speed and I would like to change to the Hurst competition plus that is on sale at Year one:

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1966-74-a-b-e-body/w4969k

Can the change out be done all from the top?

Also, I have a manifold leak on the elephant ear exhaust, will probably be switching to a header this week, is there a market for the ears once removed?

Thanks

View attachment 117304

$440 that's a pricey 4 speed shifter, maybe just get one directly from Hurst $331 currently out of stock thou

 

[Rocketman]

$440 that's a pricey 4 speed shifter, maybe just get one directly from Hurst

it isn't just the shifter, it is new rods, linkage and everything. A complete change out. After using this one a few days now I am getting where I like it more and more

 

[samedaze]

I always like the ball better than the T handle, I road race and the ball always wore out my hand. I fixed the problem by getting a billiard ball drilling and Helicoiling a hole and installing it on the handle again...no pain plus you can even pick a ball to match the color of your car.

 

[Meep-Meep]

hey Meeps, {and im thinking out loud here} any way to put anti-seize or similar product so the bolt will come out without stripping?? or will it not make much of a difference?

Sure, but you also want to make sure those bolts stay tight. Hard to put enough torque on that screw with a 5/16" allen. I swear it's like they annealed the center of those!!

 

[Rocketman]

Sure, but you also want to make sure those bolts stay tight. Hard to put enough torque on that screw with a 5/16" allen. I swear it's like they annealed the center of those!!

I hate allen heads, my Triumph bike had one for the oil plug, after buying my third one I welded a nut to it and no more problems since.

 

[Meep-Meep]

When I set up a shifter everything is tight. I even make my own bushings if need be to keep the clearances down because even at .020" it all adds up and then the slop multiplies by the length of the handle. Adjustment is also crucial and from my old hot rodding days I figured out that if I staggered the plates a little bit the transition from second to third was much better. The key there is to make sure you are completely out of second before going into third. Taking the time to blueprint the entire shifter mechanism will pay off even with a long handle. I was just running around LA in my Inland equipped Charger and ripped off a couple of gears that sounded like a T flite. So far it appears that I haven't lost my touch :yaayy:

 

[Budnicks]

Mancini Racing carries them too $248.95 #HUR391-6789 for just the shifter "I believe", I'm not sure for with rods etc... you could check with them

 

[Rocketman]

I am getting used to the inland and the reverse lock out is actually pretty cool