Time to hit the Track.

[malex]

A billet yoke would be a good choice and for sure check the trans. Strange how the pinion yoke came apart and sorry for your misfortune. Malex, did you also just change shocks?
Hopefully we get some dry weather so next weekend might be possible..
Bob

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The worst part of this is that the Transmission needs to come out and apart to check the sprag.
I changed shock settings but was still getting rise and bounce. On the test pass that it let go Wooks and I turned both the Rebound and compression up pretty good. I can't wait to get it to hook and lay a good run down, I know it's gonna be a pretty good new personal best!

 

[malex]

Get a quality branded chromoly/billet yoke , it will use "U" bolts NOT straps
With that it will be a 1350 universal , do not get a greaseable universal you want a solid
Tailshaft yoke looks toast
Good luck with the transmission

Tex

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Tex I'm going with a billet Strange yoke. I see that Strange also sells the billet U bolt straps. About 4 times the money of their U bolts, debating if those should be used?

I'll have the driveshaft spun and checked for straight and balanced too. And solid u joints going back in. I'm pretty sure the trans will be fine but it will be coming out later today and apart.

U know, I was just looking at those joints and yoke about 4 days ago. I spotted the grease nipple and thought, there's got to be better u joints out there.. Damn hey... I was also running the Moroso billet aluminum u joint straps, those have vanished now. Lol.

I have never thought about it before but perhaps U joints should be something that gets changed out ocassionally??

 

[gtxracer]

Malex, it appears that everything vanished from the pinion yoke. I would bet a broken bolt started the process. I also have used those machined aluminum hold downs for years with Spicer u-joints, no grease fitting. I know it's a bother removing the trans but it is better to be safe and confident nothing is amiss.
U-joints are subjected to extreme stress and abuse, like most of the parts we use on our cars. Wish ya luck...
Bob

 

[NSS Guy]

You should pull the trans and check the sprag, very good chance it was damaged. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[dvw]

I use the Dr Diff Forged yoke. 500+ passes. Congrats to Wookie. We won 5 rds. Rd 6 final got rained out . So we split the purse.
Doug

 

[Tex013]

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Tex I'm going with a billet Strange yoke. I see that Strange also sells the billet U bolt straps. About 4 times the money of their U bolts, debating if those should be used?

I'll have the driveshaft spun and checked for straight and balanced too. And solid u joints going back in. I'm pretty sure the trans will be fine but it will be coming out later today and apart.

U know, I was just looking at those joints and yoke about 4 days ago. I spotted the grease nipple and thought, there's got to be better u joints out there.. Damn hey... I was also running the Moroso billet aluminum u joint straps, those have vanished now. Lol.

I have never thought about it before but perhaps U joints should be something that gets changed out ocassionally??

I dont really like the aluminium strap/retainers . I have a S60 with just Strange u bolts , been 6 or 7 years daily driver and probably over a 1000 passes . Still going strong
Greasable are hollow , Spicers are good
Dr Diff , Cass , is great to deal with . Bought the S60 through him and some new axles 2 weeks ago . Bearing was turning on axle

Tex

 

[Endangered Species]

The same thing happen to us about 7 or 8 years ago.... It's the hook - spin - hook - spin - hook. Snapped the stock Strange yoke like a pretzel. We ended up going with the heavy duty Strange Yoke... Didn't hurt the tans but still ended up putting an Ultimate Sprag in.... that lasted 3 years then snapped that like a pretzel also. (we were running cal-tracs also), on the foot brake.

You have to get that under control. I would lower your launch RPM and work on getting the chassis to do what you want it to do first.
Once it doesn't spin and it leaves the way you want it to.... Then you can start bumping up the launch RPM.... Other wise you are going to have a lot of carnage before you get it under control.

I wasn't smart enough to figure out the cal tracs…. Bob George installed ladder bars 3 years ago and I'll never look back.

 

[Wookie316]

Malex you’ll be back in action in no time.
My opponents red lit when I needed them too. But a win is a win and I will take it.
Today I was not as lucky. Lost by 1/100th in the first round. He ran his number and I was off by one. That’s racing.

 

[glassman]

hey Malex, your car is lookin pretty good. Been reading about your yoke and tranny and nobody has mentioned your drive shaft. You need to check it for the correct length. Something is jamming that yoke . Check it out.

 

[malex]

You should pull the trans and check the sprag, very good chance it was damaged. Better to be safe than sorry.

View attachment 614993

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Transmission came out yesterday and checked over shortly. Hoping it's ok.

 

[malex]

I use the Dr Diff Forged yoke. 500+ passes. Congrats to Wookie. We won 5 rds. Rd 6 final got rained out . So we split the purse.
Doug

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Thanks Doug, I'll check those out.

 

[malex]

The same thing happen to us about 7 or 8 years ago.... It's the hook - spin - hook - spin - hook. Snapped the stock Strange yoke like a pretzel. We ended up going with the heavy duty Strange Yoke... Didn't hurt the tans but still ended up putting an Ultimate Sprag in.... that lasted 3 years then snapped that like a pretzel also. (we were running cal-tracs also), on the foot brake.

You have to get that under control. I would lower your launch RPM and work on getting the chassis to do what you want it to do first.
Once it doesn't spin and it leaves the way you want it to.... Then you can start bumping up the launch RPM.... Other wise you are going to have a lot of carnage before you get it under control.

I wasn't smart enough to figure out the cal tracs…. Bob George installed ladder bars 3 years ago and I'll never look back.

----
When it broke I left on the brake at 3600. Car shook, didn't move. Agreed, going to get it leaving properly. With the lower gear set and new 8" converter it's a whole different car leaving, last year it was hooking with the shock settings I started with this year.
On close inspection of the parts after it came apart it shows that the u-joint let go first, then the driveshaft bust the yoke. I'll have to get the driveshaft checked for straightness but there is some scratches on it and the end did take some good gouges as it knocked off the one side of the yoke. At this point a complete new DOM 3.5" driveshaft is likely in the works.
When I bought the old Plymouth the Dana, aluminum driveshaft, pro-trans was all in place and race ready. It turned out the Protrans was anything but that, and the yokes, u joints were the same.

 

[Endangered Species]

What if you back your launch RPM down to 2500 and start from there...

I by no means am saying I'm an expert, TRUST ME.
But I have learned that the saying you have to slow down to go faster does work sometimes.

You have a lot going on there with a trans brake, low gear set and cal tracs.
Most of the guys I know who were able to make the cal tracs work are foot braking. ( Joe Midel, Gary Jacobs, and Jim Guy just to name a few)


Also, how much tire pressure are you running?

 

[malex]

What if you back your launch RPM down to 2500 and start from there...

I by no means am saying I'm an expert, TRUST ME.
But I have learned that the saying you have to slow down to go faster does work sometimes.

You have a lot going on there with a trans brake, low gear set and cal tracs.
Most of the guys I know who were able to make the cal tracs work are foot braking. ( Joe Midel, Gary Jacobs, and Jim Guy just to name a few)


Also, how much tire pressure are you running?

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Dropping the RPMs is something that I could end up trying. Last year I was leaving at 4600 and was hooking, so I've come down a long ways. Getting the stiffness in the rear should take care of a lot of the problem that I have right now. I believe I was on the right track when my breakage occurred.
I was on brand new stiff wall Hoosier tires 29 X 10.5W. And my 2 runs were at 17 and 15 lbs. And set at 16 psi for the third test pass when I broke.
An update on my repair progress is that the trans is out, coming apart for inspection and Strange is supplying me with a 3.5" DOM driveshaft, C/M ends, good u-joints and C/M trans and diff yokes. They figured possibly getting out the door and headed my way by Friday, which would work for me making the next meet.

 

[Wookie316]

I want to see a 10.0 in your car Malex.

 

[malex]

I want to see a 10.0 in your car Malex.

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Im sure it's there already Wooks, went 132 @ 10.21 bouncing and spinning in 4000' air.

 

[Endangered Species]

What changed from last year to this year?

 

[malex]

What changed from last year to this year?

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The car is lighter by 210 lbs,
The old 9.5" converter came out and a new 8" ultimate matched to the car went in, the stall went up about 600 RPM.
Transmission rebuilt, billet low gear set went back in.
The new Hoosiers are about 5/8" shorter.

 

[Endangered Species]

---
The car is lighter by 210 lbs,
The old 9.5" converter came out and a new 8" ultimate matched to the car went in, the stall went up about 600 RPM.
Transmission rebuilt, billet low gear set went back in.
The new Hoosiers are about 5/8" shorter.

Okay, Low gear set and Hoosiers... are the tires Radials or Bias Ply?

Reason I'm asking is the Radials are fast as Sh@# …. I mean easily a 1-2 tenths. BUT they are real touchy on marginal tracks, and they are good for about 30 passes and the side walls will be out of them.

 

[Wookie316]

^^^^AGREE^^^^^
I love running radials, but the life span is not great. Just switched to my bias for the next race. I expect to see the MPH drop. I do hope the 60 is better though. Find out in 2 weeks.