71 B body Dana experts

[71GTXdragpack]

Hello,
Late last year I swapped out my 83/4 for the correct Dana 60 for my 71 GTX. After installation, we noticed that the flange on the passenger axle was bent. The seller provide another axle but this one came with a press fit bearing and no adjuster. The one I removed had a tapper (original) style bearing with adjuster. My question is the Dana compatible with a tapper bearing on the driver's side axle and press fit with no adjustment on the passenger side or do they have to be a matched set?

 

[pnora]

Hello,
Late last year I swapped out my 83/4 for the correct Dana 60 for my 71 GTX. After installation, we noticed that the flange on the passenger axle was bent. The seller provide another axle but this one came with a press fit bearing and no adjuster. The one I removed had a tapper (original) style bearing with adjuster. My question is the Dana compatible with a tapper bearing on the driver's side axle and press fit with no adjustment on the passenger side or do they have to be a matched set?

No. They need the taper on both sides or else you can not set the end play.

 

[RJRENTON]

Hello,
Late last year I swapped out my 83/4 for the correct Dana 60 for my 71 GTX. After installation, we noticed that the flange on the passenger axle was bent. The seller provide another axle but this one came with a press fit bearing and no adjuster. The one I removed had a tapper (original) style bearing with adjuster. My question is the Dana compatible with a tapper bearing on the driver's side axle and press fit with no adjustment on the passenger side or do they have to be a matched set?

The 2nd axle had the Green style bearing installed. Personally, the Green bearing ( a single row sealed ball bearing assembly) that has absolutely no business on a Dana 60 rear assembly. People use them because they are $20 cheaper than the Timken tapered roller bearings that Mopar installed ....how sad.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Bird 426]

I have the green bearings in my Dana.
Yes, both sides need to be the same. No adjustment on the greens, just push the axles in till the snap ring stops it. There will always be a big debate over factory taper and green bearings.

 

[GTX JOHN]

I run Green Bearings on my race cars.
However, never on my street cars as I just do
not have faith in them for a street application.

 

[oldkimmer]

Chevrolet/GMC and their BOP divisions ran the roller bearing from the late 50s till 1964. Ford started using them in the late 50s till the late 90s. Of course they had the pin in the center of the diff to eliminate the side play. So they have probably made over a billion street miles. If u get bearings from Doctor Diff u don’t have to remove the center pin. Kim

 

[Runcharger]

Pretty easy to pull that ball bearing setup off the axle and replace it with the proper Chrysler bearing setup.

 

[71GTXdragpack]

The 2nd axle had the Green style bearing installed. Personally, the Green bearing ( a single row sealed ball bearing assembly) that has absolutely no business on a Dana 60 rear assembly. People use them because they are $20 cheaper than the Timken tapered roller bearings that Mopar installed ....how sad.....
BOB RENTON

Thank you Bob. I don't have enough knowledge about these bearings so assumed that it would be okay. With yours and other recommendation, I think the best thing would be to get the seller to provide a new tapper bearing and adjuster for the passenger side to make everything compatible and correct.

 

[RJRENTON]

I have the green bearings in my Dana.
Yes, both sides need to be the same. No adjustment on the greens, just push the axles in till the snap ring stops it. There will always be a big debate over factory taper and green bearings.

You're relying on a snap ring to control axial thrust load (cornering forces), rather than the design of the bearing assembly. The snap ring just provides location of the bearing assembly; it has nothing to do with the bearings axial load capabilities. .Single row ball bearings have a limited ammount of axial load (thrust load) compared to a Timken Tapered roller bearing, are designed for both axial and radial loads. The small cost savings of using a ball bearing assembly is out numbered by the reliability and dependability of the origional design. Cost is/should not be a consideration........,IMO.....no matter who is the source......just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON

 

[71GTXdragpack]

Quick update on the Dana, the seller ended up sending me a matching press fit roller bearing instead of the proper tapper bearing. I'm going to go ahead and install it on the driver's axle so it matches the passenger side and I can at least start driving the car.
One question, I understand that with tapper bearings, there's a button or pin that retains the preload which has to be removed for press fit type roller bearing. Where is this pin/button located and do I need to remove the gears in order to access it? This is quickly starting to mushroom beyond my capabilities.

 

[chargervert]

My friend took two of his cars to Watkins Glen raceway and whipped them around the course for hours, with green bearings and had no issues.

 

[71GTXdragpack]

My friend took two of his cars to Watkins Glen raceway and whipped them around the course for hours, with green bearings and had no issues.

appreciate that but my question is regarding the pin/button that maintains preload when using tapper bearings. Now that I'm switching to press fit roller bearings, I'm told that button/pin is no longer required but I'm unsure where it's located or how to remove it. Any drawings/instructions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[RJRENTON]

Quick update on the Dana, the seller ended up sending me a matching press fit roller bearing instead of the proper tapper bearing. I'm going to go ahead and install it on the driver's axle so it matches the passenger side and I can at least start driving the car.
One question, I understand that with tapper bearings, there's a button or pin that retains the preload which has to be removed for press fit type roller bearing. Where is this pin/button located and do I need to remove the gears in order to access it? This is quickly starting to mushroom beyond my capabilities.

Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your vehicle. It shows the assembly of the axle INCLUDING the adjustment procedure of the axle preload and parts needed. The FSM is available on line at no cost to download. The tapered axle bearing assembly is superior in all regards to the ball bearing design, although some people prefer the Green bearing. See if you can obtain all the original parts from who supplied the axle...there are seals plus hardware involved....perhaps you can have someone convert your Dana back to original as Mopar supplied it...just my opinion of course. BTW...BOTH sides must have the same style bearing...not one tapered bearing and one ball bearing. This is all visualized in the shop manual....
BOB RENTON

 

[71GTXdragpack]

Do you have a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your vehicle. It shows the assembly of the axle INCLUDING the adjustment procedure of the axle preload and parts needed. The FSM is available on line at no cost to download. The tapered axle bearing assembly is superior in all regards to the ball bearing design, although some people prefer the Green bearing. See if you can obtain all the original parts from who supplied the axle...there are seals plus hardware involved....perhaps you can have someone convert your Dana back to original as Mopar supplied it...just my opinion of course. BTW...BOTH sides must have the same style bearing...not one tapered bearing and one ball bearing. This is all visualized in the shop manual....
BOB RENTON

Hello Bob,
yes I have a hard copy and the online copy of the service manual. I too would prefer the original tapper bearing setup but I'm have to work with what I have which is now trying to convert both sides to have matching green bearings. I'll review the manual and try and determine how to access the button/pin which has to be removed and not required for green bearings.

 

[RJRENTON]

Hello Bob,
yes I have a hard copy and the online copy of the service manual. I too would prefer the original tapper bearing setup but I'm have to work with what I have which is now trying to convert both sides to have matching green bearings. I'll review the manual and try and determine how to access the button/pin which has to be removed and not required for green bearings.

I'm truly sorry to hear of your decision to use Green bearing. I guess the former owner removed all the original Mopar stuff and went the cheaper way. You'll know when the Green bearing failed as it usually damages the axle and housing and there is nothing to retain the wheel assembly, it rubs against the fender. Ignor the road racers saying "i've driven *** miles without any issues". WHY did Mopar go to the tapered axle bearing design.....reliability and long life on literally millions of cars.
BOB RENTON

 

[71GTXdragpack]

so just to clarify, the seller of the Dana 60 had the correct tapper bearings and adjuster when I bought it. I discovered that the passenger side axle flange was slightly bent. He sent me a replacement axle for the passenger side with press fit bearing. Now I have a miss match so I requested a replacement bearing and he sent me a press fit for the driver's side. Someone unfortunately made the decision for me.

 

[RJRENTON]

so just to clarify, the seller of the Dana 60 had the correct tapper bearings and adjuster when I bought it. I discovered that the passenger side axle flange was slightly bent. He sent me a replacement axle for the passenger side with press fit bearing. Now I have a miss match so I requested a replacement bearing and he sent me a press fit for the driver's side. Someone unfortunately made the decision for me.

The fix is: if the replacement axle is correct for the Dana (look at spline count, flange face runout, overall length) then remove the Green bearing by grinding the Green bearing races...DO NOT USE A TORCH AND CUT THE OLD BEARING OFF...and install the Timken bearing, using FSM procedures and the saved parts on the replacement axle.....DO NOT HAVE ONE OF EACH BEARING THEY MUST BE THE SAME. STUDY THE FSM TO SEE HOW THE ASSEMBLY LOOKS....Just my OPINION
BOB RENTON

 

[GTX JOHN]

I have not had a Dana without a spool for 40 years but as I seem
to recall the pin is similar to 8 3/4. There are two buttons that are put in center
or carrier where axles go it. hold them in There is a nail like pin that goes to cent of buttons
to them in. I would have to remove the carrier to install them. My arms are way too short and fat
to go 30 inches into axle housing and your's probably are too!

 

[RJRENTON]

I have not had a Dana without a spool for 40 years but as I seem
to recall the pin is similar to 8 3/4. There are two buttons that are put in center
or carrier where axles go it. hold them in There is a nail like pin that goes to cent of buttons
to them in. I would have to remove the carrier to install them. My arms are way too short and fat
to go 30 inches into axle housing and your's probably are too!

IMO....IF the center carrier is removed for service (clutchs, spider gears, carrier bearings) a case jack is used to spread the case SLIGHTLY (0.040" - 0.060") to allow the carrier to be removed AND NOT PRIED OUT....and when re-installing the carrier do not just hammer the carrier in place. Dana-Spicer has the tools needed, and the FSM shows the methodology for setting ring gear to pinion gear backlash clearance. Some say the case jack or spreader is not necessary .....but the choice is yours. Study the FSM. The Dana 60 rear assembly is a heavy duty design, capable of high torque loads.....but treat it with care when servicing not the Army method of brute force and blind ignorance......just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON