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I may have hot tanked the wrong oil pan...

Krooser

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Ok...today I took some pieces of the 318 to the machine shop to be hot tanked ... oil pan, valve covers, front cover and a '69 340 intake.

The pan was from my $100 318... the other parts came out of my inventory.

The oil pan was soooo greasy and caked with crud that I decided to spend the $$$ to have it hit tanked. My parts washer has a bad pump and it's too cold to use my outdoor faucet to wash parts.

The intake had laid in my shop for maybe 15 years...the other valve covers were from a '77 core engine I acquired.

I was surprised that the girl at the front desk told me I could pickup the parts in a few hours...she would call me when they were ready.

Great...I live 50 miles out so that saves me a trip.

So the wife and I spent the day at an antique mall where I bought a vintage cardboard beer case that I will convert to a bass drum for my drum kit.

Then I went to a specialty wood supplier to buy a small sheet of baltic birch plywood for the guitar amp cabinet that I'm building for my new home built Fender amplifier clone.

Then it was off to lunch at Noodles & Company. Had to pee...used my first "gender neutral" rest room....looked like all the others I have pee'd in.

Anywho...when I got back to the shop to pickup the parts I was in shock...it looks like that oil pan had been on the Key bridge in Baltimore... I new it had a big dent in the bottom that I needed to rework. But one side is literally smashed.

Looks like it was on top of that bridge and landed in Chesapeake Bay!

So I'll see if I can beat it into submission like my ex did to me on our first date.

Film at 11...

PS... Note the photo of the trunk of my daily driver....
Mopar race headers, race oil pans, Fluidamper, pulleys etc all going to South Dakota this week.

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You may want to change the title of this thread so it makes sense...

not tanked = hot tanked?
 
Yup, looks like someone shoved a floor jack in a little deep.
 
Must have been dropped...however the pickup was not bent.

You can't really see the big V that's a long one side of the pan. The pan came off easy so it will seal ok.

I'm going to try to find my ancient porta power, clamp the pan to my bench and try to push that dent outta the side.

This is a '73 engine but was installed in an M body IIRC. I hope the pan fits my '65... If not I have big hammers.
 
Get another pan. They're cheap enough to not worry if you get a good seal.
 
Get another pan. They're cheap enough to not worry if you get a good seal.
I hate to toss things that can be repaired.

I can get a new China pan for $68... But that's less money for the other stuff I need.

And that's 68% of what I paid for the whole engine!

The pan rail is straight and flat. No reason why it won't seal.

I was going to buy a new bottle jack if I can't find my porta power. I may have sold it last fall at my Man's Sale.

But now I'm thinking maybe I can use the scissors jack from my Buick...yea that's it...my Buick jack!!!

Man I have some great money saving ideas...maybe I should write a book...Cheapskates Guide to Mopar Restorations
(An old bastard*'s guide to building Dodges cheaper than Chevies).

Might even win a Pulitzer Prize in the WTF category...

Calling my agent right now!
 
So....I meandered out to my shop tonite ...limped might be more accurate.

Anywho I decided to tackle the smashed up oil pan.

I used the screw jack from the wife's Jeep. It fit perfectly inside the pan.

Next I fired up the smoke wrench and heated the 1" crease in the left side of the pan.

Then I used one of my cordless drivers and a 3/8" drive flat head screwdriver bit to crank on the jack.

Worked great! I got about 80% of that crease out of the side of the pan. Still have about 3" that I couldn't get to...might leave it as is... maybe not.

You can see the deformed side of the pan in the photo with the jack in place.

Tomorrow I will have some help so I will try to straighten the bottom of the sump using my torch and the weight of my Coronet to push out as much as I can. Two person job.

I WILL need to straighten the left side gasket surfaces as it deformed a bit after I got the crease mostly removed.

Later...

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Well I may have to toss this pan in the trash...

After giving it a close inspection I think the left pan rail has been eaten away by rust... Seems kinda thin.

Looking thru my small block stash I can't seem to find any oil pans....got heads, cranks, blocks, front covers but no pans.

Shoot...

On the bright side I found a nice timing set, some distributor rotors and points, pushrods, head bolts, a Magnum cam and lifters , more connecting rods etc.

I also pulled one rod cap to look at the bearings. The bearing is dated 8/72 and is .010 under. Engine is a '73. Factory bearing. Looks very good. I will pull a main cap tomorrow.

Has a factory M72 oil pump.

Next step is to pressure wash the engine, install the timing set and 340 intake, Magnum exhaust manifolds, Eldebrick carb, etc.

Then I will start fabricating the juice clutch bracket, bolt the clutch and trans together and stuff it into the engine bay.

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Beautiful spring day here today...

Gave the 318 a light bath...got some of the heavier grease off the block. Bought seven new frost plugs...pulled out the old ones and found some black grime on one side sticking to the plug. Going back out there to flush the cooling system tonite.

Next I will do some final cleanup before I paint the long block.

I found some long lost stuff in the shop today...a '71 (?) 340 ThermoQuad intake I thought I sold, two sets of SBM intake gaskets to complement the one I bought for this build, some early Hemi, 322 Buick and Triumph TR-2 gaskets, a OEM TR-2 heater shutoff which is a desirable part, a new sbm fuel pump and a few other gems too.

Getting anxious to drive this thing this summer. Been hitting the indomethacin and Tylenol a little harder to help me handle the back pain.. found a nice office chair on the side of the road to use in my shop to wheel my fat *** around. That makes two chairs and three bar stools to help me out.

I'm really old...

And I ordered a box five input shaft bushings for the Coronet...now I have four spares if anyone needs one.
 
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5:30 AM... Just got back in from a couple hours in the shop. Hit the rack at 12:30 AM but couldn't sleep.

Got the long block pretty clean and paint ready. I pulled the intake and I was impressed at how clean this engine is...virtually no sludge, grime or other bad stuff. Cam is nice.

There was some silicone on the intake gasket and timing cover...and a lot on the oil pan surface. I hate that stuff. Whoever had this apart last smeared everything with it. But none is evident inside the valley or pan.

This afternoon I'm going to paint the block. I'm a big fan of Bill Hirsch or POR 15 engine paint but this is getting orange Rust-Oleum because I have a can in stock.

The 340 intake is already in color. I'm using a 1" 4 hole carb spacer I had on the shelf. The 1405 Edelbrick should be ready to go...bought it used for $50...fingers crossed.

Using the stock points distributor. I recently sold my fancy MSD race setup that was centrifugal advance only.
I do have an old analog MSD box going on the car.

I recently bought a larger heated parts washer...it's been coming in handy!
 
Made a bit of progress today.

Finished the paint, started installing the frost plugs, got the intake installed and mocked up the whole deal using my old race valve covers and 1" carb spacer.

I tried to reuse the timing set I have in stock but I think the chain is shorter than stock.

The 388 I had was line bored and used a shorter chain. I think this is an SA brand timing set. Going to try to find a stock length roller chain and keep the sprockets I have.

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Plan for tonight...

Make four exhaust manifold studs to fit the Magnum manifolds.

Install the remaining intake bolts.

I had planned on using a double roller timing set that I had for my old race motor but it's too short for this 318 since it fit a block that was line bored.

And I wanted to advance the cam 4* to make up for the stock retarded timing set I also have on the shelf. The solution is to file a new slot for the crank key in the 4* advanced position copying the one I WAS going to use.

So I will do a little layout work and use a Dremel and a file to duplicate that new key slot.

Once that is done I can flip the engine over and install the FuManChu oil pan I bought.

Then the engine will go onto a steel rolling workbench I built years ago and I will fab up the hydraulic clutch setup, install the clutch and transmission to get it ready for installation into the Coronet...
 
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