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440 valve failure

I’ve found a new engine available in Australia. Anybody got an opinion on this??

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MOPAR 512cu Big Block Engine - NEW

MOPAR 512cu 681 hp NEW crate engine Street Build - will fit under the bonnet Built in the States by a MOPAR specialist and shipped over. Landed in Australia in May 2024. All import fees paid and...
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Roman1970RR said:
I’ve found a new engine available in Australia. Anybody got an opinion on this??

www.facebook.com

MOPAR 512cu Big Block Engine - NEW

MOPAR 512cu 681 hp NEW crate engine Street Build - will fit under the bonnet Built in the States by a MOPAR specialist and shipped over. Landed in Australia in May 2024. All import fees paid and...
www.facebook.com www.facebook.com
Click to expand...
Wow! That's a lot of money!
 
lewtot184 said:
Wow! That's a lot of money!
Click to expand...
That was my first thought as well.. But then I checked the conversion rate, it's around 20K US.. Which is still a lot, but it's been shipped from the US to Australia, the import duties have been paid & it was probably 16K or more to build... So who's the builder?
 
Here are some more details

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It is a looooong way to send it back if it has a problem.......
 
lewtot184 said:
Wrong parts, poor assembly, excess abuse sets up some crazy harmonics in the valve train. I doubt anything would tolerate that for any length of time.
Click to expand...
I don't want to bash the OP but from what little I see so far, That engine looks messed up. Rusty looking coolant, shiny and oily cylinder walls with no cross hatch visible, combustion chambers that look carboned up and of course the damage that occurred.
That engine looked to be ready for a rebuild even if this carnage hadn't occurred.
It is unfortunate that this happened. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 
Kern Dog said:
I don't want to bash the OP but from what little I see so far, That engine looks messed up. Rusty looking coolant, shiny and oily cylinder walls with no cross hatch visible, combustion chambers that look carboned up and of course the damage that occurred.
That engine looked to be ready for a rebuild even if this carnage hadn't occurred.
It is unfortunate that this happened. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Click to expand...
Considering he just bought the car I don't consider it his fault that things are not in the condition they should be....

I do agree with @Geoff 2 that that new engine won't have any support from the builder.... Just the distance alone was insulation enough, now changing ownership? Forget about it...
 
I only scanned the thread here, I didn't pay close attention to the details like I do in the other threads that feature pictures like these:

ZZ c.jpg
 
Kern Dog said:
I don't want to bash the OP but from what little I see so far, That engine looks messed up. Rusty looking coolant, shiny and oily cylinder walls with no cross hatch visible, combustion chambers that look carboned up and of course the damage that occurred.
That engine looked to be ready for a rebuild even if this carnage hadn't occurred.
It is unfortunate that this happened. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Click to expand...
Good morning. Yes the coolant was surprisingly rusty I flushed the radiator and put garden hose on heater lines with engine running the first weekend I had the car. Things started to pop out at this point. Lack of coolant at all in radiator, oil leak coming from rear main seal which I ordered new. Further to that I had vibration at speed which has worked out to be my pinion angle is not right. Further digging and calling shop suspension was looked at in revealed a list of issues from sloppy ac joints to bushes to replace. The work was not rectified at the shop according to them. When approached the previous owner they stated the work had been done. It is buyer beware and none of these issues were obvious on the day of the sale which was private through a friend of a friend and no warranty. The car needs some work which I was already prepared for as I have a full list of things to upgrade and improve which will be part of making the car my own. The engine has thrown a spanner in the works to my plan but I will recover and move forward.
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Considering he just bought the car I don't consider it his fault that things are not in the condition they should be....

I do agree with @Geoff 2 that that new engine won't have any support from the builder.... Just the distance alone was insulation enough, now changing ownership? Forget about it...
Click to expand...
I understand there is no support it’s a risk but I don’t have the luxury of off the shelf parts and aside from what I can learn here not a lot of experienced mopar people to seek advice or carry out work. It’s going to be a costly project and a challenge keeping the car on the road but I’ve accepted that.
 
Just my Opinions!!
Im a fellow Australian based in Sydney

The 512 engine your considering looks good on paper but could be another disaster waiting to happen,
also with an engine of this calibre you will need to consider upgrading Transmission, driveshaft, diff,
chassis connectors, cooling system list goes on.

Feel free to pm me for my number to chat.
 
sneezi said:
Just my Opinions!!
Im a fellow Australian based in Sydney

The 512 engine your considering looks good on paper but could be another disaster waiting to happen,
also with an engine of this calibre you will need to consider upgrading Transmission, driveshaft, diff,
chassis connectors, cooling system list goes on.

Feel free to pm me for my number to chat.
Click to expand...
stock main caps in the 512? If so a bomb looking for a place to explode.
 
lewtot184 said:
stock main caps in the 512? If so a bomb looking for a place to explode.
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And after you do the caps, the block is the time bomb lol.
All engines with power are time bombs.
 
Roman1970RR said:
ARP bolts im making enquiry on what caps.were used.
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Arp bolts won't save your butt. The cast caps are the problem. Forget about that 512 thing, Find a 400 block, put steel caps in it and a 470 stroker kit. Repair or replace the heads, find a sensible mechanical cam with a good valve train and go have fun.
 
lewtot184 said:
Arp bolts won't save your butt. The cast caps are the problem. Forget about that 512 thing, Find a 400 block, put steel caps in it and a 470 stroker kit. Repair or replace the heads, find a sensible mechanical cam with a good valve train and go have fun.
Click to expand...
Billet main caps and arp bolts and I’ll turn rev limiter down.
 
PRND21 said:
You dropped a valve at 3000 rpm. Unless the engine stopped instantly, you’re not going to like what you see when you take that head off. As Doug advised, look over your retainers and keepers. Make sure they match themselves and the valves. Might want to check that connecting rod for straightness also.
Click to expand...
 
I can’t see that much horse power out of that combo. I believe the 1.7 rockers are Cat brand so I’m Leary of them. Good luck in whatever u do. Kim
 
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