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440 Source vs Hughes stroker kit

aussiewannabee69

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Hi guys I've decided to spend a bit of money on this dust collector I have in the shed (69 Coronet-440 6 pack).
So I'm starting with the engine as it needs a full rebuild and I like either 440 source or Hughes stroker kits. I'm leaning more towards 440 source due to a lot of positive feedback. The car is going to be a 99% steet car mostly due to there is no drag strip within 100s of klms from me, but I want to have a lot of torque so I can blast a few shitty Holden's and fords at the lights. I like the 440-500 kit but if the 512 kit is the same money would it be worth just doing that?
6 pack will be staying as I've just got the carbs redone.
I also don't really know what cam,rockers etc to get. I don't mind spending a little extra for the hyd rollers either.
I will be getting the TF heads aswell. Again don't know whether the 240s or 270s. Again I would like more off the mark power then dyno points.
This is probably pretty basic information for some but I like to get all my ducks in a row before shipping to aus cause it ain't going back once it's here.
Also running a 727 and currently has a TCI torque converter which I believe is about 3500-4000 stall which I'm happy to change to suit the engine application.
 
Hi guys I've decided to spend a bit of money on this dust collector I have in the shed (69 Coronet-440 6 pack).
So I'm starting with the engine as it needs a full rebuild and I like either 440 source or Hughes stroker kits. I'm leaning more towards 440 source due to a lot of positive feedback. The car is going to be a 99% steet car mostly due to there is no drag strip within 100s of klms from me, but I want to have a lot of torque so I can blast a few shitty Holden's and fords at the lights. I like the 440-500 kit but if the 512 kit is the same money would it be worth just doing that?
6 pack will be staying as I've just got the carbs redone.
I also don't really know what cam,rockers etc to get. I don't mind spending a little extra for the hyd rollers either.
I will be getting the TF heads aswell. Again don't know whether the 240s or 270s. Again I would like more off the mark power then dyno points.
This is probably pretty basic information for some but I like to get all my ducks in a row before shipping to aus cause it ain't going back once it's here.
Also running a 727 and currently has a TCI torque converter which I believe is about 3500-4000 stall which I'm happy to change to suit the engine application.
Hey Mate !!
Greetings & Salutations From USA …
Mopar2ya!!
Kevin Shaw of Mopar Connection Magazine
Recently posted a video of a “505” stroker
They built & Dynoed . I think he used 440 Source Stroker Kit & Trick Flow 240’s &
Made about 630 Horse & A Boat Load Of Torque
Check it out it’s online 4urr viewing pleasure..
Good Luck With Your Project!!
John
 
The 4.25" stroker kits (505" @ 4.350" overbore, or 512" @ 4.375" bore) are pretty easy to build. The crank pins are 2.20" GM size, so the rod big ends usually clear the bores without needing to be notched.
I haven't bought a Stroker kit from Hughes, so I can't comment on that. Got CNC heads and cams from them that were good. Looked at their web page, and looks like they use the 8-bolt crank flange that might be an issue if using stock type flexplate or flywheel? If you call them, they might also have the kits with the standard 6-bolt flange?
Both Hughes and 440 source are using the ICON forged pistons at their advertised prices.
The 505 in my Coronet has the 17cc dish pistons and 84cc? stealth heads. Compression is around 10.3:1 as I recall it (the block was decked.) Built that over 20 years ago.
The 505 built for a friend had the lower compression 27cc dish pistons with the trick flow 240 heads. compression just a bit under 10:1.
I've done a few 440 source stroker engines. The balance was pretty close, maybe within 2 grams average bobweight? One kit I measured could have had a worst case stack up of 3 gram difference in bobweight, but paring slightly heavy pistons with the lighter rods and such the average bobweight was about a 1/4 gram different bobweight than what 440 source used to balance the engine.
I pieced together an unbalanced stroker kit that I have now because I wanted to balance it myself and I already had the main and rod bearings, but I really didn't save much if any money. That was back in 2020 when prices were lower, but supply chain made getting parts harder.
 
I used Ohio Crankshaft's kit (probably before 440 Source was around) with no regrets. Use the smallest overbore you can, it makes for stronger cylinder walls/better ring seal. RPM heads. Complete Hughes valvetrain (solid) and my 6 Pack induction. 10.6:1 CR, Dougs headers with 3" exhaust-X-pipe. Made 453 HP at the wheels.
Mike
 
I used Ohio Crankshaft's kit (probably before 440 Source was around) with no regrets. Use the smallest overbore you can, it makes for stronger cylinder walls/better ring seal. RPM heads. Complete Hughes valvetrain (solid) and my 6 Pack induction. 10.6:1 CR, Dougs headers with 3" exhaust-X-pipe. Made 453 HP at the wheels.
Mike
Headers?
what cam did you use?
what is your engine vacuum at idle?
 
Two things ill throw in......
Myself, Id lean towards Hughes instead of 440 source.
If the car is "real" and has the original engine, i'd set that motor aside and start from scratch with an old c-body motor or something of that nature....then just use your original 6-pak on it.
That idea might just pay for the whole project later on......
 
Hi guys I've decided to spend a bit of money on this dust collector I have in the shed (69 Coronet-440 6 pack).
So I'm starting with the engine as it needs a full rebuild and I like either 440 source or Hughes stroker kits. I'm leaning more towards 440 source due to a lot of positive feedback. The car is going to be a 99% steet car mostly due to there is no drag strip within 100s of klms from me, but I want to have a lot of torque so I can blast a few shitty Holden's and fords at the lights. I like the 440-500 kit but if the 512 kit is the same money would it be worth just doing that?
6 pack will be staying as I've just got the carbs redone.
I also don't really know what cam,rockers etc to get. I don't mind spending a little extra for the hyd rollers either.
I will be getting the TF heads aswell. Again don't know whether the 240s or 270s. Again I would like more off the mark power then dyno points.
This is probably pretty basic information for some but I like to get all my ducks in a row before shipping to aus cause it ain't going back once it's here.
Also running a 727 and currently has a TCI torque converter which I believe is about 3500-4000 stall which I'm happy to change to suit the engine application.

your stall is good "depending on ur cam" .
I run a Hugh's 505 stroker "race balanced " , "by them " it raps like a sbc , its a .600 lift solid roller , cnc ported Edelbrock Victor knock offs , cleaned up and matched victor intake , to match even a bit further head work , changed keepers and retainers , flowed , they flow a little more than what trick flow advertises for their 270 heads .
I would definitely go with 270`s if I were you , choice of intakes might be a little restricted tho.
They did offer a 6 bolt flange back when I bought mine . 505,727/3500 Hugh's convertor ,,Dana 60/Detroit locker ,fast fuel inj. , biggest sticky Hoosier street tires "295 65 d15" that I can get under the stock reshaped inner fender wells , stretched front of rear fenders, with 3/4'' offset spring hangars/actually moved the springs about 9/16'' , and cal tracks , magnum force front end ,with my home made strut rods to help reinforce it - some ....
just had it rewired at Smothers Supercars , as I`m getting to old and stiff to work under the dash anymore...<they did a beautiful job !!
hellcat killer as long as its in passing gear range...
Had it sold for $35.000 , but backed out before I had it rewired , as it had developed a short that my old *** couldn't find , and I didn't feel right about it maybe quitting the kids that wanted it , Runs like the beast it is, fish tails those sticky tires at will...
 
Well I'm on the other side of the fence here. You'll be fine with either vendor, but I'd use the 440 Source before Hughes just based on customer treatment alone.
Parts quality is a wash as far as I'm concerned. They both use offshore crankshafts. The 440 Source includes Clevite bearings, SCAT rods and ICON pistons where the Hughes kit uses Eagle.
The one thing I would do if using Hughes, is pay the extra for the Molnar crankshaft (if they still offer that upgrade). They are made overseas as well but held to much better quality and are a nice piece.

6 pack will be staying as I've just got the carbs redone.
I also don't really know what cam,rockers etc to get. I don't mind spending a little extra for the hyd rollers either.
I will be getting the TF heads aswell. Again don't know whether the 240s or 270s. Again I would like more off the mark power then dyno points.
99% street car with a six-pack, stick with the TF240s. The 270s are nice heads but everything becomes a little more involved and expensive when you go that route, not to mention moving the meat of the power band up the rpm range a little more. Not needed for your defined goals.
(Make sure you put some good drag radials in the budget too or you'll constantly be facing the wrong direction! :D :D)
 
Last edited:
Hey Mate !!
Greetings & Salutations From USA …
Mopar2ya!!
Kevin Shaw of Mopar Connection Magazine
Recently posted a video of a “505” stroker
They built & Dynoed . I think he used 440 Source Stroker Kit & Trick Flow 240’s &
Made about 630 Horse & A Boat Load Of Torque
Check it out it’s online 4urr viewing pleasure..
Good Luck With Your Project!!
John
Thanks mate, ive just watched the video you shared and im pretty keen on something like that. Makes a lot of power.
 
The 4.25" stroker kits (505" @ 4.350" overbore, or 512" @ 4.375" bore) are pretty easy to build. The crank pins are 2.20" GM size, so the rod big ends usually clear the bores without needing to be notched.
I haven't bought a Stroker kit from Hughes, so I can't comment on that. Got CNC heads and cams from them that were good. Looked at their web page, and looks like they use the 8-bolt crank flange that might be an issue if using stock type flexplate or flywheel? If you call them, they might also have the kits with the standard 6-bolt flange?
Both Hughes and 440 source are using the ICON forged pistons at their advertised prices.
The 505 in my Coronet has the 17cc dish pistons and 84cc? stealth heads. Compression is around 10.3:1 as I recall it (the block was decked.) Built that over 20 years ago.
The 505 built for a friend had the lower compression 27cc dish pistons with the trick flow 240 heads. compression just a bit under 10:1.
I've done a few 440 source stroker engines. The balance was pretty close, maybe within 2 grams average bobweight? One kit I measured could have had a worst case stack up of 3 gram difference in bobweight, but paring slightly heavy pistons with the lighter rods and such the average bobweight was about a 1/4 gram different bobweight than what 440 source used to balance the engine.
I pieced together an unbalanced stroker kit that I have now because I wanted to balance it myself and I already had the main and rod bearings, but I really didn't save much if any money. That was back in 2020 when prices were lower, but supply chain made getting parts harder.
Ok so overall the kits from 440 have been pretty decent and reliable?
 
Two things ill throw in......
Myself, Id lean towards Hughes instead of 440 source.
If the car is "real" and has the original engine, i'd set that motor aside and start from scratch with an old c-body motor or something of that nature....then just use your original 6-pak on it.
That idea might just pay for the whole project later on......
The only thing original on this car is the rust. engine i believe is from a 73. nothing special about this car unfortunately
 
your stall is good "depending on ur cam" .
I run a Hugh's 505 stroker "race balanced " , "by them " it raps like a sbc , its a .600 lift solid roller , cnc ported Edelbrock Victor knock offs , cleaned up and matched victor intake , to match even a bit further head work , changed keepers and retainers , flowed , they flow a little more than what trick flow advertises for their 270 heads .
I would definitely go with 270`s if I were you , choice of intakes might be a little restricted tho.
They did offer a 6 bolt flange back when I bought mine . 505,727/3500 Hugh's convertor ,,Dana 60/Detroit locker ,fast fuel inj. , biggest sticky Hoosier street tires "295 65 d15" that I can get under the stock reshaped inner fender wells , stretched front of rear fenders, with 3/4'' offset spring hangars/actually moved the springs about 9/16'' , and cal tracks , magnum force front end ,with my home made strut rods to help reinforce it - some ....
just had it rewired at Smothers Supercars , as I`m getting to old and stiff to work under the dash anymore...<they did a beautiful job !!
hellcat killer as long as its in passing gear range...
Had it sold for $35.000 , but backed out before I had it rewired , as it had developed a short that my old *** couldn't find , and I didn't feel right about it maybe quitting the kids that wanted it , Runs like the beast it is, fish tails those sticky tires at will...
What do you use you ride for most, street or strip?
 
Well I'm on the other side of the fence here. You'll be fine with either vendor, but I'd use the 440 Source before Hughes just based on customer treatment alone.
Parts quality is a wash as far as I'm concerned. They both use offshore crankshafts. The 440 Source includes Clevite bearings, SCAT rods and ICON pistons where the Hughes kit uses Eagle.
The one thing I would do if using Hughes, is pay the extra for the Molnar crankshaft (if they still offer that upgrade). They are made overseas as well but held to much better quality and are a nice piece.


99% street car with a six-pack, stick with the TF240s. The 270s are nice heads but everything becomes a little more involved and expensive when you go that route, not to mention moving the meat of the power band up the rpm range a little more. Not needed for your defined goals.
(Make sure you put some good drag radials in the budget too or you'll constantly be facing the wrong direction! :D :D)
Its funny you say that, a mate over here said the same thing about the customer service with Hughes. Makes a big difference when im all the way over here.

Yeah i definitely want more go down low.

Haha yeah definitely going to need some fats on it.
 
Its funny you say that, a mate over here said the same thing about the customer service with Hughes. Makes a big difference when im all the way over here.

Yeah i definitely want more go down low.

Haha yeah definitely going to need some fats on it.
weird , I have had nothing but good service from Dave at Hughs ..
And my stuff wasn't eagle either ! of course mines been in for about 12ish yrs...drag radials wont come close to holding a stroker...

fats>biggest tires u can get on it !
 
weird , I have had nothing but good service from Dave at Hughs ..
And my stuff wasn't eagle either ! of course mines been in for about 12ish yrs...drag radials wont come close to holding a stroker...

fats>biggest tires u can get on it !
Yeah well me personally I've never dealt with him so I definitely can't cast any judgement on him or his business. Looks likes got some quality gear.
Well I will be mini tubbing so I should be fine I think.
 
Between those heads, go with 240's as the 270's are "Max Wedge" size and the 6 pack intake will not match the 270's ports. Good luck on build and don't overcam it.
 
You should also check out one of the Molnar Technologies balanced rotating assemblies I sell. More expensive than a 440 Source kit, but a lot higher quality components.

Here's link to what I offer. Mopar Performance Parts For Sale

Please note that all the big block kits from a 440" up to a 541" are all the same price.

Tom
 
You should also check out one of the Molnar Technologies balanced rotating assemblies I sell. More expensive than a 440 Source kit, but a lot higher quality components.

Here's link to what I offer. Mopar Performance Parts For Sale

Please note that all the big block kits from a 440" up to a 541" are all the same price.

To
Cool I will check it out.
Is there clearance issues with that size stroker? I've read Molnar are a much better quality.
 
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