Hey guys I'm new here I've tried searching a bit but I cannot find exactly what I'm looking for. I have a 1968 Coronet, the car was fully restored years back and everything replaced. I'm upgrading to a higher amp alternator, however it seems like this car is wired like a 1970 and up with the silver box style voltage regulator. It's a two wire alternator setup, now for my big issue at hand. I took apart the cluster and retro fitted a volt gauge where the amp meter was and made it look factory. Everything I read it says to put both the wires that were on the amp meter together. Now I was tracing wires to follow those using continuity test. The red wire, I get a signal off the positive battery cable, now the black one gets signal on any ground. Bolts under the dash ect.. So obviously I can't hook the two together but I can't for the life of me make sense why the car would be wired this way? It does make my life easier just hook it to the volt gauge done, or am I missing something here. It also begs the question did the guy who restored the car have that as a volt gauge. I appreciate any help in advance
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Initially, back in 1967-1969. When your car was built, the wiring began as a BLACK ("R6-12BK" meaning 12 ga wire Black) lead from Alternator to the Bulkhead connector.
- From there the "R6-12BK" wire continues until it meets into a "Splice" INSIDE the dash harness itself, splitting off into 6-7 other wires, One of which FEEDS the AMMETER (R6A-12BK), Fuse Block, Dash, Ignition switch, Lights accessories.
-The AMMETER since Fed by this R612A-BK wire is in Series or In-line and offers no resistance in circuit. It simply monitors Amperage output. NOT Voltage.
-Fusible Link- For reference? Is labled:
"A1C-16DBL" (16 ga Dark Blue) Feeds FROM, STARTER SWITCH, into bulkhead (J) Changes to "A1-12R" straight TO Neg side of Ammeter. Ammeter is constantly watching ENTIRE Amperage load of HOT circuits. NOT just the battery, which is Voltage. So "Outside of Theory"? There is NO need to monitor Voltage.
1-REMOVE this installed Voltmeter.
2-Replace the dash harness with a NEW "M&H" dash harness. Personally? I've seen more burn to the ground from losing the ammeter for a Voltmeter. I dunno WHO or why a 17 year old came up with this idea. It's mind boggling. (Not trying to be a jerk or condescending ). 99% of the time we see "ADDED Accessories" lights, Radios, Amplifiers, FANS, Electric fuel pumps all added to a car that ran great with a 65 amp alternator. NOW needs 150 amps!