Never seen calipers that look like this.

[69440yellow]

I am experiencing some issues with my front end. There is a lot of play when wiggling the tire so going to replace wheel bearings. But my question is about the calipers. I have never seen bridge bolts like this. Is this normal.

 

[hemi71x]

Your working with whats known as "Pin Type" calipers.
Most commonly found on the E Body, Barracuda and Challenger cars, 1970-74.
Ma Mopar used them on other body styles, into the 1970's.
Perfectly normal calipers, but your rubber bushings are shown out of the caliper body.

Your working with a 70-72 disc brake set up, as your picture(s) show a two piece rotor.
Rotor and hub.
70-72 rotors use a smaller diameter inner wheel bearing, so the "shaft" on the spindle is a smaller diameter, so is unique to 70-72.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Those are what are referred to as "Pin Style Calipers" Though they look to be replacement calipers not OE calipers..
And that rubber bushing should be in the caliper not behind it..

 

[Dave6T4]

It looks like the slider bolts never got turned in properly. It is a wonder this has not flown all apart. DO NOT drive it like this!

 

[69440yellow]

I tried to tighten them up but they are already bottomed out. I agree it seems that they should at least have a large portion of the shoulder in the caliper.

 

[Dave6T4]

I tried to tighten them up but they are already bottomed out. I agree it seems that they should at least have a large portion of the shoulder in the caliper.

I think you have the wrong set of slider pins, then. I have this same setup on the front of my 1964 Polara, and it works great. I think there are two different lengths of pins, depending on which year of caliper being used.

 

[hemi71x]

I think you have the wrong set of slider pins, then. I have this same setup on the front of my 1964 Polara, and it works great. I think there are two different lengths of pins, depending on which year of caliper being used.

I would hafta agree with Dave6T4 with his reply.
I'll bet a dollar to a rolling doughnut that you have "C" body pins on those calipers.
Mixed matched parts on that set up of yours.
"C" body pins are longer in length because the thickness of those rotors are 1.250 inches in width.
You got yourself a Frankenstein brake system that you need to sort out.

 

[mopar 3 B]

What no one missed the anti-rattle clips that also hold the rubber bushings in place

 

[hemi71x]

What no one missed the anti-rattle clips that also hold the rubber bushings in place

Ma Mopar did away with those things in later years on the pin calipers as it was determined that they really didn't do much good anyway.
The rubber bushing was "lipped" on both ends to keep it inserted in the caliper body.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

What no one missed the anti-rattle clips that also hold the rubber bushings in place

The clips don't hold the bushings.. Thousands upon thousands of those style brakes on the road, lots don't have the clips & the bushings stay where they belong as long as they were properly installed in the first place... The clips were out of production for years, they've recently become available again but the price is insane, last time I bought one they were about a buck apiece, now it's something like $100 for a set of four..

 

[mopar 3 B]

Got my last in the brake pad kit. I did not spend $100 dollars on brake pads either.

 

[hemi71x]

The clips don't hold the bushings.. Thousands upon thousands of those style brakes on the road, lots don't have the clips & the bushings stay where they belong as long as they were properly installed in the first place... The clips were out of production for years, they've recently become available again but the price is insane, last time I bought one they were about a buck apiece, now it's something like $100 for a set of four..

In 1970 the positioner clips were a one year design and that if your a "restorer" for a disc brake system and want to be 100% original, that's why one pays 100 bucks for those things, in the reproduction world.
Then in 1971 until Ma Mopar stopped using them, the design slightly changed, so those are ones that are readily available, and commonly used, all the time.

 

[alsant]

Looks like the bleeder screw is in the up position ?

 

[cr8crshr]

Looks like the bleeder screw is in the up position ?

Yep and that would also cause improper bleeding of the brakes to not be done properly. Switch the calipers so the bleeder Zerk fitting is at the bottom so as you will get better bleeding thanks to gravity. DAMHIK...cr8crshr/Bill

 

[Dakar Timm]

Why would mounting the bleed nipple at the bottom help?. One would think the air would get trapped .

 

[Dave6T4]

You should always mount calipers so bleeder is at the top to get as much air as possible out of system. Check your FSM.

 

[69440yellow]

You should always mount calipers so bleeder is at the top to get as much air as possible out of system. Check your FSM.

Thank you for the replys,, I wonder where I can go in the northern area of Tampa to get help with parts to fix my problem.

 

[alsant]

Learn something new everyday , thanks

 

[hemi71x]

Yep and that would also cause proper bleeding of the brakes to not be done properly. Switch the calipers so the bleeder Zerk fitting is at the bottom so as you will get better bleeding thanks to gravity. DAMHIK...cr8crshr/Bill

Where in the world did you ever come up with that?
That is totally untrue.
You are throwing false information out there for others to read.
To get air out of a brake system, caliper bleeder screws need to be at their high point in the system.
No exceptions, in the way of hydraulic physics.

 

[cr8crshr]

I miss spoke on this...Sorry as I meant to say that I did it with them down and had a hell of a time bleeding my brakes. Sorry for the confusion is all...cr8crshr/Bill