Recent content by 72RoadrunnerGTX

Higher output alternators alone don’t cause additional current flow through the bulkhead charge circuit terminations. The loads determine the current flow, with correctly placed loads, there should be little to no current flowing through the ammeter, no matter the alternator capacity. The...

You are going to want to install headlight relays after making that repair.

A few more,

Pretty sure there were two versions of that inset/bezel originally, cast open or cast plugged. Made that conversion a couple of times myself back in the day when you could readily buy them over the counter at the dealers. Don't recall having to cut out the blanks. Does have two separate listing...

Yep, full light brightness, otherwise won't hurt anything

If you have power from the switch on the black wires at the dimmer control and providing external power to the tan wire gets you dash lights, can only be an open in the dimmer control, bad dimmer. Just jump terminals in the dimmer connector, unplugged, with a piece of wire, should have dash...

Do you have power from the switch, lights on, at the dimmer connector (L7A-18BK)? You could jump the two terminals (E1-18T & L7A-18BK) at the dimmer connector, find a switch that gets you dash lights. Check continuity on L7A-18BK between the dimer connector and the switch connector.

Both leads at the dimmer should show voltage with the lights on. If you have running (park) lights, the issue is with the illumination rheostat (dimmer) or the 5amp fuse in the fuse box dedicated to the illumination circuit. Where the rheostat is separate from the headlight switch, you should...

Needs a good ground to the fender, the lower bracket has some teeth designed to dig through the paint and undercoating on the underside of the fender panel. I will add a separate ground wire using a ring terminal under the mounting stud nut to insure a good ground to the lamp housing.

Another take on relay flyback diodes in automotive applications.

Working on a new set of videos about electrical issues common to these original ammeter-based electrical systems. Updated the fixture a bit for a little more clarity while doing some more load testing with a new tool (to me anyway) to track resistance and heat related issues. Will be reviewing...

The 833 does not have a Neutral safety switch, back-up light switch only. The described/pictured wiring is the back-up switch wiring, nothing to do with the starter relay. As previously mentioned and diagramed, the unused terminal on the relay goes to the clutch pedal switch (at the clutch...

Yes, to the primary side of the relay. The clutch pedal switch would provide the ground to activate the relay when the pedal is depressed only. If the clutch pedal switch is not used, will need to provide a ground and be careful not to start it while in gear. The same terminal would be used for...

You have a “bare post” on the starter relay? Green wire? You are not using the clutch pedal switch? You need to ground that “bare post” to be able to activate the relay from the ignition switch.

Yea, I saw that one, thanks for the props. Tried to comment on it, appears you may still have my YouTube profile blocked, commented on an earlier vid on that project challenging some ammeter info presented, my comments disappeared shortly after that. Good luck.