Recent content by PRHeads

Make sure whatever spring you use has enough travel to accommodate the higher lift. At least .050” from coil bind at full lift.

The “recommended” springs on that cam card are way too stiff for break in. I’d suggest 100-120 on the seat and under 300 open.

No one else can make the decision for you as to which is the right choice in that regard(old school vs new school). Good luck with your choice, whichever way you decide.

Apparently my reading comprehension needs some work. I was just reading thru the OP’s posts, and it finally set in……. He had TWO link bars fail!! I’m going to say that’s a first for me. I wonder how long it was from the first one failing, until the second one failed.

They actually drove the car from SoCal up to Oregon and ran it in the Redwood Ralley drag n drive event……. And drove it back home. Pretty brave for a new build. The replacement lifters for round 2 are Isky’s, which are Johnson’s.

Sorry you’re having to deal with it. My comment was more to set you on the hunt for BBM HR options…….. which I believe will show all choices are the link bar style. Got a link for the other video?

Which high dollar Hyd roller lifters that fit a BBM, that aren’t the link bar style, do you suggest?

Well, at a minimum you’ll need a new cam, and I’d recommend trying “better” lifters. Beyond that, you’ll have to assess what you have and go from there. You could try making a post asking about BBM’s with retrofit HR cams…….how many miles have you logged, and what parts are being used?

Anyone here check out Gnarly Speed Shop on The Toob? They have a stroker in a charger with the TF top end. They had a lifter fail too, and as I recall it was a link bar on that one too. That doesn’t answer any questions here though. We had a Morel lifter stick a plunger at the bottom of the...

In many engines that use some sort of hydraulic lifter, often the ceiling of the power band is limited by the lifters ability to not get into a “collapse” situation during higher rpm operation. Assuming you’re able to avoid that pitfall, a 250*@.050 HR lobe would support a peak in the 6000...

I’m quite surprised that the caps being on backwards didn’t result in any damage. Frankly, I’m surprised the crank even turned.

I think the question being asked is…….. Which way are the arrows on the caps pointing now?

Here’s how I look at it……. What is your TOTAL budget for the cam swap? How much of an improvement are you expecting out of just that one change? Does the expectation match the investment? Personally, I wouldn’t bother swapping in another HFT cam. Save your $$ until you can afford a solid...

I have zero G3 experience so this may be a dumb question…….. I would assume in this application the variable cam timing isn’t utilized. If that’s the case, is there no timing set that just eliminates all that stuff?

If you’re changing pistons to increase the CR, I’d make the step up to a sealed power L2266F, which has a CH of 1.991”, which is about 5cc in the right direction compared to the 1263.