Recent content by PRND21

^^^^That would be my first thought, sending unit loosing its ground. I’d take a test lead with a couple of alligator clips , attach it to the sending unit and a good ground somewhere, take it out and drive it. See what happens.

You dropped a valve at 3000 rpm. Unless the engine stopped instantly, you’re not going to like what you see when you take that head off. As Doug advised, look over your retainers and keepers. Make sure they match themselves and the valves. Might want to check that connecting rod for straightness...

KD, I believe that’s for a ‘65. No cut outs for the ‘64 tail lights, will fit a ‘63, but there’s no holes for the ‘63 trim.

LSMFT

But, that’s just YOUR opinion…

My wife just asks if it is something she can drive. She’s rode along when I’ve picked up 4 of them so far.

My old alignment guy died recently, my experience with raising or lowering the front end of my 65 would change the toe in. At least that’s all he ever adjusted. He was a meticulous old fashioned mechanic, let me look over his shoulder and showed me all his settings. When the body goes up or down...

Raising or lowering will effect toe in more than anything else.

Thanks for the reply. Not wanting to highjack this thread. I used to buy it from my fuel/oil supplier, I use it in a couple of bush hog gearboxes. I’d never use it in a transmission. All I can find anymore is 85W/140.

Best way to determine TDC accurately with the heads on is a piston stop. Pretty easy procedure.

Where, may I ask? I can’t find straight 140 around here.

Where in Indiana? Do you have the door panels or at least the metal top pieces?

Where in Ohio are you located?

Son of a bitch… I just paid $2400 to have my turbo encabulator replaced! I’m starting to think I got ripped off!

The 64 Savoy that I’m redoing right now has side trim just like the 65 Bel 1. I was told that it was optional on the 64, but I don’t have anything to prove it. Pretty sure that I’m going to fill in the holes, haven’t made up my mind yet.