Recent content by PurpleBeeper

Just so you know, on the back of that piece there is a template that shows you where to drill the hole

Your pump will be OK. You only need 1 gasket.

Do you have a 318 car? Automatic?

It looks like your steering wheel isn’t pushed on all the way (?). Why do you have a gap between the steering wheel and the steering column?

First, check that all the screws/bolts on the lock & striker are rock-solid tight (they can get loose). Then PB Blaster the heck out of the lock mechanism. Finally, grease it up really well (I used red grease, but I’m not sure that’s the best choice?). Then as said above, trial & error. Also...

I also seem to remember that once you remove that little “rubber tip” you need to loosen a couple vent widow frame screws too & you might need an impact driver (I did)

From memory….you take the top corner rubber “tip” off the vent window and the inner/outer cat whiskers off the door. Detach the glass and slide it up/out. You can do it without removing the vent frame. BE CAREFUL…the slides that you’re replacing are very delicate until they’re fully installed...

Maybe try the Help section at a parts store?

I have found that for a wide variety of cars, the sockets are the same and only the length of the black wire is different. I’ve got late 60’s (?) fender pigtails on my ‘70 hood

The same

Nuts with captured washers from the factory. I believe bucket seat cars get some extra bracing in the floorboard (?)

The automatic and 4 speed consoles are shaped different (at least in 68-70)

The seat belts have a bolt that goes into the threaded holes. The seat bases go through the floor with nuts on the bottom

Floor it in drive from a dead stop and see if it really barks the tires going into 2nd gear

I plan to attempt this on my ‘70 trunk. I’ve got a factory electric trunk lock from what I think is an early 70’s C-body. It sure looks close enough to fit