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Because I had an arrangement with a supplier who supplied these switches to Chrysler. That is no longer the case, unfortunately. I'm out of the good turn signal switches and it looks as though I probably won't be able to get more, and I refuse to handle the Chinese junk that's already all over...
I ran this on the 318 in my '89 D-100. It worked well; I kept it and put the OE intake back on when I sold the truck. That was ten years ago, so pretty good odds someone else will do a better job than me of using it. The top edge of the plenum divider has been "sharpened" (see photo); the reason...
"Can't find it? Make it!" So I did.
The "Mopar Parts" decal with the Flookerang (Forward Look logo) is for pre-'64 cars.
The air cleaner and coolant decals are for Canadian cars ("Chryco" instead of "Mopar").
Quality is awesome. The pics below are low-resolution (72dpi) scans; the actual...
This is not my car and is not near me; I am not involved.
Photo speaks for itself; what it says is open for discussion. Ad is on Craigslist here (incorrectly listed as a 1974 Polara); 3rd-party story is on Curbside Classic here, and legend is also on CC here.
Here's an unusual air cleaner for ya: an oil bath item from a 318-2bbl Dodge truck. It will fit any '66-up 2-barrel carburetor used on Slant-6 or 273-313-318 V8 engines (Carter BBD, Bendix Stromberg WW, Holley 2280, and a few others); it uses the same bail-and-top-wingnut attachment as the...
Bit of a mystery, this. It's a reverberator unit out of a '60s Chrysler product of one kind or another, but I've lost my notes on just what it came out of. The idea with these is they hook to the radio (input) and a rear speaker (output). It delays the signal to the rear speaker by a small...
Here's an Auto-Lite (Prestolite) MDT-7002 starter motor as originally installed on '60-'61 Plymouth-Dodge cars with the 225 engine. Also fits '60-'61 Valiant-Lancer with 170 or 225, Canadian '60-'66 Slant-6 cars; a variety of Australian, Mexican, and Argentinian Valiants, and US + Canadian...
That's exactly what I set out to do; details here. The poor quality of the Chinese copycat parts available from others is why I got into it, and I long ago lost count of how many switches I've provided to (permanently) clean up neverending messes caused by repeated failure of switches bought...
There's no real objection to legitimate HID headlamps. "Legitimate" is the key word.
You're right that there's nothing magical about H4 bulbs, or H1 bulbs, or halogen bulbs in general, or the lamps that take them. But of the legitimate options, they are usually the most cost-effective kind of...
Right now the objectively-best H4 high/low beam and H1 high beam large and small round lamps are glass-and-metal units made in Japan by Koito, one of the top suppliers of lights and lamps to the world's automakers, and the best bulbs are made by Tungsram (GE of Europe), so that's what I keep in...
The original-type headlamps are sealed beams. No matter what brand or when made, plain or halogen or "performance halogen", these are primitive and barely marginally adequate. They produce a dim, narrow smudge of poorly-focused, brownish light, very little light on the road surface, no side...
A little difficult to tell from this distance, but it looks like the ones on the passenger side of the car are plain old shelf-stock halogen sealed beams, H5006 outer and H5001 inner. Probably Sylvanias. That "black disc" you see is an unreflectorised area at the heel (centre) of the reflector...
Chrysler's headlamp purchasing in that timeframe was 50% GE, 25% Westinghouse, 25% Tung-Sol. There's some fairly accurate info here, and reasonably accurate, overwhelmingly detailed info here (PDF).