Recent content by Under Pressure

Was my Dads, it’s a 245SA, I believe 1979, gotta use the compression release or you’ll never get it started. Maybe I’ll paint it pink and call it Poulan Rouge.

Hoping to learn to appreciate whiskey, my son got me this

Not there, Take the ground strap off or push back towards house and heat the hub of the brass sillcock, it’s screwed onto a nipple

Always heat the fittings you want to solder or remove, never the pipe or the seam, solder follows heat, thus draws into a fitting where you want it. If you only heat the brass shoulder of the brass sillcock you won’t melt the other solder joints Hope that helps

Oh the humanity!

I love doing plumbing, I love correcting issues, I love soldering, but I’ve been a plumber since 1977. Not discrediting Sharkbite but plumbers don’t use them much for various reasons. In the above post #45, -Shut the feed line off. -Open the sillcock. -Heat the **** out of the 3/4” brass at the...

That’s it!, couldn’t for the life of me remember

Low tech comment but the sensors at each wheel hub (on inside facing of hub) have a sensor pointing at what looks like a gear, check the sensors are in position and that the gear is clean of grud. That was an easy fix on a 1999 Chrysler I had.

What a beautiful ride, now get out on the road and smile with pride

Member on on this site Tinknocker has an original black 1970 GTX the he bought new when he got out of the service, he still owns it

I still have my original Dixie set, and my Slingerland set both from the 70’s (if anyone remembers those brands) Haven’t played for 20 + years, wife is getting worried I’ll start up again when I retire later this year

Put your compression test gauge on it and cold crank it, s/b north of 110 if rings still good

Happy birthday young man!

Took a peak at this one, she’s ok