Recent content by VAD Gold Rush

I had to rebuild the upper control arms for my 71 Satellite. I whipped out the camera and filmed the process. I hope you all enjoy my tips and tricks for better alignment.

When I got a driveshaft for my a833 with 8 1/4 rear, I measured from the flat on the yoke to the end of the tailshaft. I sent the driveshaft shop the yoke and the measurements and the driveshaft fit first time.

Hey all, I just thought I'd share a fun, ride along/wrenching sort of video where I take my 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring for its first few drives with the freshly swapped a833. I hope you all enjoy.

The numbers I gave are good for both valves, but you can give the exhaust .002" extra lash if you feel safer doing that. One of my solid cams calls for .002" extra on the exhaust, another calls for same lash on both.

I would start at .025". That's a nice number given by many cam manufacturers. I'd say anywhere from .020"-.025" is safe.

Thanks a lot. I managed to fix the thread size for the z-bar pivot with the bellhousing in the car. I'm lucky to have been a machinist at one point so I had everything I need. I got the clutch fork pivot to work correctly with a bit of modification. In all, the car is back on the road.

I was able to find that old thread. I had a good look and it gave me a few ideas of where to look. I have tomorrow off, so I'll check it out and see what's going on.

That's all correct. The problem is inside the bellhousing. The pivot point for the clutch fork is too far away from the throwout bearing.

I'm using a Lakewood LK7000 bellhousing for the 4 speed swap in my 1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring. I'm having problems getting my clutch fork to align properly. Does anyone on here have any suggestions from experience? I'm using a clutch fork from Brewer's Performance with the clutch pivot...

I'm sure those are beryllium seats. They're required for use with titanium valves.

I've ran that a few times. It's not too expensive compared to regular gas in my parts. I wonder if my local place still carries it. It cured detonation in my cars more times than I can think.

That's what I've been running. I've only been running the non hardened seats since September of 2024, so I haven't had much run time since then.

For what it's worth, I've seen a few heads with seats so wore out that the springs could rotate with ease. Hardened seats weren't too expensive to put in. Sometimes it's a matter of whether the head will take it or not. I had a set of 340X heads built with intentions of installing hardened...

I needed the reinforcement plates for sure. I made some home made plates yesterday to mount the driver seat. I'll do the same today for the passenger side.

Thanks a lot! I'll see what I can't do with this information.