Center carb pouring gas out of vent tube

Yea, I just found another article that recommends taking the hard lines off, and looks like I'm going to need to buy some new hard lines as everyone states the nuts go bad and strip, which I'm already encountering. This blows!!! So much for driving the car this weekend.

But at least I did fix the broken stud in the head!!

Use line wrenches for the fuel line. I made a wrench for the fuel inlet nuts that go into the fuel bowl. they always come loose when trying to remove the fuel line.

yea, this is turning into a REAL PIA!!! Can't get that back carb fuel line to budge. this really sucks!!!

You MUST use a line wrench on the inlet nut. I've saved a few fuel lines by doing this: hold-back on the fuel line next to the nut with a rubber/plastic coated vise-grip tight but not too much. Then give the line wrench a quick abrupt whack.

You will get it, just be patient, walk away before you start throwing things and find a happy place.

If you're still struggling with it, go to NAPA and get a can of 'Fluid Film'. Spray it on the fitting and threads, tap the fitting with a hammer to set up a vibration and wait about 10 minutes. Use a tubing wrench on the fuel line nut and hold back the inlet fitting, as was already stated here. Rap your tubing wrench with a small hammer. It will come off...

Ok, will try the Fluid Film and see what happens.

SUCCESS!!!! Got the carbs off tonight!!!! And I couldn't see any noticeable issue with the float. But here's a question on the center carb fuel bowl: my Six Pack is off a '71 car and it has the Emissions System Bowl. I found this interesting that the screw that holds the retainer in place went deep into the fuel bowl and was hitting the float. Is it supposed to do that? I hope not because I trimmed the screw flush with the fuel bowl so it no longer interferes with the float.

Carbs go back on tomorrow and let's hope my Old Faithful fuel geyser is fixed.

Car's back together and so far so good.

Well? How's it running NOW?

Looks like you got this figured out. Just a note to others reading this. As soon as I read the title, it was evident that there was a "float level" issue. Good suggestions above, but one I recently ran into was due to a brand new needle and seat...from Holley. When it showed up, it had a bad o-ring to seal the bowl to the needle and seat. I have spares, so I installed another one...same problem. I had some spare, new o-rings in my kit. Replaced the o-ring, slapped on some lube so it wouldn't tear, and I'm good to go.

Well? (LoL)....
It gets better. (This means in MoPar Lingo, "Worse")
So last night, a buddy Chevy guy who is dying to own a 6 Pack car now, called me up, he owns a '68 396 SS Camaro, wants to go for a little "Cruise", well this always eventually means short Drag Racing. I'm happy to oblige, as My 440/6 Pack Bee eats that SS alive every time. He just cannot take me. Started out having a lot of fun. I live in Independence Missouri, police here currently are MORE than laid back, you'd never beleive how much so. (Tell ya more later). So, it's a Monday around 7:00 pm hardly any traffic at all on the local well known 80's cruise road. So? Yep he wants to "GO". Happily I blow the doors off the poor Drop-Top 396 car over, and over and over again. So? Now need gas. I NOTICE, my poor "Factory Dragster" is idling like CRAP. Ammeter is wayy down and needle struggling to stay around -20! If i put the 727 in Neutral it seems to idle and "Rev Up" fine. Drop it in Drive? And there's a huge load on it, not to mention, while driving, I have this kind of NO Partial cruise speed, gas pedal doesn't affect car speeding up, but once I get to a point, it'll want to run at High RPM fine. Headlights on now, they're dim at a stoplight, and car acts like it wants to die. In my 40 years of owning these, and driving them, my immediate thought is "Crap, I smoked the Alternator" or something Center Carburetor is going on again, (Like the being Flooded) issue. I capped off the ECS Vent tube to keep Gas from leaking out onto the motor when NEEDLE & SEAT want to clog. Sick of this already. Ive always known 6 Packs to be problematic, or temperamental, but now? Not sure where to start. Car DOES need all the wiring yanked and replaced. Already have the harnesses from "Year One" to do it. This car has this aftermarket Voltage Regulator also, I got the Voltmeter out last night when I parked it, battery voltage with car OFF is at 12.84 Volts! WTF? Sticking or dead Voltage regulator? I've been very lucky over the years to not really have issues like this in the past. But that battery VOLTAGE seems way too high, especially at REST. 12.6 is supposed to be "Healthy". I'm 50 yrs old, never claimed to be a "Know It All". Which is why I'm asking anyone who owns a 6 Pack Car, and occasionally Drag Races (On city streets, I know it's unsafe, Blah Blah), local police actually were sitting, and WATCHED my V2 Orange Bee and this 68 SS race! And never once stopped us. THAT itself, is amazing....
(Help?) I think the Alternator is probably toast, and have a flooded carb issue at same time.

I know Im late to the joint passing.... But, DO NOT USE TEFLON "Thread Tape" on the fittings, ANYWHERE. Small bits WILL end up in a Needle/Seat or an Idle passage....
6 Packs are NOT for the easily Pissed.

Better yet? Take em ALL OFF, and replace all 3 with NEW CARBS..lol

So you can "cap off" the ECS vent tube and nothing happens? I'm considering purchasing a new carb. That's why I'm asking. Thank you.

8formulas said:

So you can "cap off" the ECS vent tube and nothing happens? I'm considering purchasing a new carb. That's why I'm asking. Thank you.

Click to expand...

YEP! I dont know (For the love of God,) WHY they designed that to just DUMP raw gasoline all over the 700° exhausts if Needle & Seat got stuck! LoL.. However, there truly IS a reason, IF that happens, carb FLOODS, and without knowing, at IDLE you're pouring GAS into the CRANKCASE. Oil then becomes basically non-functional. Bearings get wiped out, as well as cylinder walls scraped all to hell.. It WAS acrltually a good idea (the ECS vent hose). I think a better design of the 2300 Series 6 Pack/Barrel Carbs overall could have been achieved.
Just my $0.35 (cents)..

Not that I think this would look good (unless you were able to hide it very well).....BUT.....what if you were to extend the rubber vent tube hose toward the back of the engine and down the side of the trans so that in the event that the needle got stuck and fuel was dumped, it would spill on the ground and not "all over the 700 degree" manifold. Again, it wouldn't look good seeing a rubber hose running down toward the trans but it's better than a car fire. Just kinda putting this out there.

On a 6-Pack with the reproduction carbs, found out the two end carbs have the nitrophyl floats with the aluminum arms, and if your fuel pressure is too high (like 9-psi) the float arms start bending to where the fuel level keeps creeping higher in the bowls over time. The center carb had the brass float, and it seemed to be OK with the higher fuel pressure?
I think over the years, I ran into most common fuel level, float, needle-seat issues.
Had one with a pinhole in the brass float, another where the needle and seat had a nicked O-ring letting fuel past the needle and seat, the more common debris in needle and seat, and even old worn out needle and seat

Are the repro carbs worth buying? Are they reliable out of the box? Or do you have to open them up and make adjustments?