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Best oil for a roller cam engine

md71631

md71631

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So, its time to change oil in the 505 engine..... roller rockers and roller cam.... Zinc not a requirement I have read..... so like a Mobil 1 synthetic? Interested in what you guys are using in your roller engines ......... Muscle Motors in Michigan who built this engine back in 2012 seems to be no longer in business.... and the guy I bought it from and stored it for all these years can't remember what he used..... he thinks a straight weight 30w or 40w..... which I think is to thick for cold starts....... appreciate your input.... M


IMG_1484.jpg
 
I'd use 10/30 non synthetic.

For the roller cam, any engine oil. For the rings, not synthetic.

Do you know:
What kind of rings used, amd cylinder wall finish?
how many miles on it?
Bearing clearances?

The bearing clearances and type of driving tell us what weight to use.
Synthetic keeps rings from breaking in and sealing.

After 1000 miles then synthetic if you want,
 
I was told by the former owner that the car had over a 1000 miles on it..... but it has been stored for a long time....
 
How much have you driven it? Is this first oil change for you?
 
Penn Grade 20w50 in my 512 w/hyd roller cam and roller rockers.
 
I would run the lightest multi-viscosity oil (10w-30, 10w-40, 15w-40, 20w-50) that will still give you 20 psi at hot idle.

I personally think synthetic oil is a waste in old cars with a carbureted engine that only get driven a thousand miles +/- a year and changed every year or two. Carbs are known to go haywire at times and run rich on the choke which can dilute the oil with fuel, so the 5,000 - 8,000 change intervals that the high price of synthetics buy you is probably not going to happen or be a good idea. I don’t think they provide any superior protection. But that’s just my opinion - everyone has one. If you like synthetics then go with it. They won’t harm anything.
 
MM also built my 540 and recommended 20W-50. I am using Brad Penn.
Mike
 
I ran mine for about 60 miles on Brad Penn 20w-50 then switched to Royal Purple XPR 5w-30.
 
I've been running Rotella 15-40 in my junk for a LOT of years but recently read that diesel oil isn't formulated for high rpm use but I've always ran my stuff high rpm. Btw, my newest vehicle is a 97 and the oldest daily driver is a 95. Thing is I couldn't find what or how high was too high. I'm going to keep on running what's been working for me until it doesn't. 20-50....well, I'm in Texas and don't think I need that and don't think you do either where you live but it gets in the 100's here in the summer time and we can have extended stretches of that kind of temps.
 
Cranky said:
I've been running Rotella 15-40 in my junk for a LOT of years but recently read that diesel oil isn't formulated for high rpm use but I've always ran my stuff high rpm. Btw, my newest vehicle is a 97 and the oldest daily driver is a 95. Thing is I couldn't find what or how high was too high. I'm going to keep on running what's been working for me until it doesn't. 20-50....well, I'm in Texas and don't think I need that and don't think you do either where you live but it gets in the 100's here in the summer time and we can have extended stretches of that kind of temps.
Click to expand...
I run the T6 Rotella in my '08 Kawasaki Concours 1400, up to 10,500 rpm. Have for 16yrs, 75k miles. No issues yet.
 
Doesn't really matter. Use whatever is on sale at Walmart. Change it a couple of times a year and you'll be fine.
 
If you’re going to try and buy performance oil locally, you will probably have the easiest time finding Valvoline VR1. I’d use 20w50 in that build.

If you’re going to order oil, I’d use Driven Hot Rod 15w50. It’s available in petroleum or synthetic.
 
andyf said:
Doesn't really matter. Use whatever is on sale at Walmart. Change it a couple of times a year and you'll be fine.
Click to expand...

That’s what I do. 5w30 usually.
 
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