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Yes, the bulbs are halogen. They’re Tungsram +120 bulbs. I bought them from Daniel Stern lighting along with the Kioto reflector housings that were recommended.

I used crackedbacks wiring harness. Excellent workmanship. Used lighting provided by Daniel Stern lighting. H4 and H1 bulbs. Excellent lighting with no dimming at idle. For me, LEDs in reflector housings and I couldn’t align the headlights. Too much of a scattered beam pattern.

I have 44 psi on sidewall and run 80% of that, 35.2, so 35 psi all around.

What’s the MC bore size? I use the Cordoba rotors, the 2.75” slider calipers, manual brakes, Dr Diff’s aluminum 1.031 MC. Stops great. I used a Motive pressure bleeder to bleed. If you have a metering valve you’ll need to have the pin pulled open to pressure bleed the fronts. I found the Motive...

I’ve had a Rock Auto Cardone for 12 years with no problems. The slop I had came from a loose fitting aftermarket steer coupler. Put my OEM unit back on with new shoes and now have tight steering with the Cardone box. I also kept my core.

This is how I solved my dim headlights at idle. I recently installed an alternator from a 1985 Diplomat (60amp). I read Mopar made changes to the alternator in 1985 using a thinner stator between the case end shields as compared to the thicker stator in previous units. I used LEDs in every light...

I had a similar problem which turned out to be out of round drums. There’s only a couple of shops in my area that even have the equipment to turn drums. Both my rear drums were brand new Bendix (China) and out of round right out of the box. Once turned problem was solved.

I bought an aftermarket coupler for power steering that did not have a master spline. Went on easily, but was wobbly in the mesh which translated back to the steering wheel as loose steering. I soaked my OEM unit in evapo-rust and installed new shoes. Steering is now tight. Maybe I got a bad...

For me stock parking light bulbs and LED taillights, the stock flasher worked. LED parking lights and LED taillights required an electronic flasher. I used a neutral polarity flasher, grounded to the ashtray frame, so I didn’t have to mess with the factory plug. My stock hazard flasher still...

Factory manual based brake system also. With the Bendix 11.75” rotors I used I knock out the Chinese wheel bearing races and install Timken.

I use this style with DOT 3 fluid. No leaks.

My fleet by-pass took the charge wires from alternator through the firewall to the ammeter and from the ammeter back through the firewall to the starter relay. The bulkhead was by-passed. My ammeter remains in the circuit and fully functional. Crackedback’s kit was headlights only.

FWIW I did the fleet by-pass with 10 gauge wire, used Crackedback’s kit and LEDs everywhere but the headlights, which are OEM seal beams, with no problems with a stock 60 amp alternator. I put an amp clamp meter on and get 15 amps at idle, in gear @775 rpm, no lights. With lights on I get 17...

So do I. I don’t find it that hard to push. Car stops great. Stops like my Acura. Side note: I used all Mopar sourced parts. The Mopar parts work well together.

I’ve been running V rated 235/60-15 Vitour Galaxy R1 tires for a year now. Took my BFGs off. Vitour letters stay white. So far so good. Like the tires. I believe Vitour tires are also available in 14”.

My brakes are manual. I used all Mopar source parts for the brakes, 1.031 master from Dr Diff, 11.75” rotors, semi-metallic pads and the car stops just like my Acura. No problems.

The biggest problem I had with steering slop was the aftermarket coupler. Fit loose on the worm gear like it was slightly oversized. Even had new shoes installed, but still sloppy. Cleaned my OEM unit, put in new shoes and slop is gone. Steers great with a totally stock box.

I use the original system used after 1-1–1970 with metering valve. Works great.

I believe in 1975 they stopped putting residual valves in the MC and started with expanders in the rear wheel cylinders. I have no residual valves in my MC and nothing inline and I have no trouble with braking. The Disc O Tech brake article references the lack of residual valves and expanders in...

Think so. Free shipping at the time. They processed my order quickly. Took a few days delivery since I’m in Ohio. Tried 235/60-15 Vitour Galaxy R1 tires as an experiment. So far so good.