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So it’s even worse, I tried to modify the manual plate but the top booster bolts replace the studs?!?!

Yep there’s a metal plate/air duct right below where the nuts are and going behind a cluster won’t get to it. The only way is through the top through the dash and apparently the only way to the dash is through the windshield.

That must be just for the master cylinder which I got off, the plate is another matter. I took off the air duct, there is a metal plate blocking the upper nuts. I believe the other forum is correct, remove the top dash, (even taking out the windshield) then change the plate, put in the new plate...

When I go up in the dash there are metal brackets on either side and then one in front and I see absolutely no way to get any type of wrench up in there. I don’t know if you recall exactly how you did it I was thinking, maybe if I take out the gauges but Literally where I marked in the picture...

How did you get the old manual plate off? I can’t even see the nuts behind the dash for the studs.

Update - this is what I did. Wound up putting the adjustable proportioning valve behind the metering valve to the back circuit. I built my own bracket, and the knob is facing up. It is nicely accessible from the alignment panel behind the front tire. Hopefully it won't leak. I am now struggling...

Gang, Working on my drum to disc project for my 67 GTX. Using the pirate kit with a power booster. Cannot seem to figure out how to access and remove the stud nuts interior side for the master cylinder/power booster plate. I was able to get the old master cylinder off, barely, but the two studs...

Thanks for your reply. Did you just reuse and bend the original lines up to the master cylinder too?

Hi, I'm in the middle of a complete front end rebuild including drum to disc front conversion with power booster. I bought a kit from pirate and so far no issues. I'm at a point where I can either convert my old brake line system or redo more. The kit from Pirate came with an adjustable...