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Sounds like either the governor or 1-2 shift valve is sticky. I say sticky because it works ok after warm up, if it were galled it would be a problem all the time. I’d flush the thing and replace the fluid and filter. If it doesn’t fix it you’re probably due for a rebuild.
The mom of a friend of mine drove a hemi 4-speed Daytona in the early 70’s. Her dad got it cheap as a leftover. She hated it. Comment was, “the only good thing about it was that I could find it in a parking lot”. This was around Erie, PA. Red car, black interior.
I’ve re-drilled the front mount for a lower hole. Keeps the mild arch of the factory spring without the crappier handling of the superstocks or higher arch springs. Also costs less if the current springs are good.
Many people don’t know that this stuff simply evaporates too (very slowly). If there’s a little leak in the rubber seal over the reservoir it’ll just evaporate away over the course of a year or two. Had a ‘55 C1B pickup for a decade or so. That was before the rubber seal. The filler plug had a...
Gotta say my ‘64 Sport Fury is one of the quieter ones I’ve had. The A pillar and rain gutter are covered with chrome pretty thoroughly. In fact , there’s no rain gutter any more with the chrome on there. Hadn’t thought of that until your discussion here.
I get around 12-13 with a stockish 426W. If you care about this stuff it’s a really good idea to check your odometer over some distance (like that 100 mi) against GPS doing the same thing. Even with the “right” gear in the tranny the odometer can be pretty wrong. I “lost” 1.5 mpg when I did this...
There’s a difference between break in and ongoing running. Also a difference between high lift and stiff springs and a stock 304.
Metals have become better in general with exceptions in China sometimes. These cams aren’t mainstream any more, expertise has gone down and we’re generations away...
The speedos tend to be wrong to begin with. The charts can be sorta close. Quick rule of thumb is that for factory-ish size tires us the rear gear ratio. 3.23, use 32, 3.91, use 39 etc. that’ll get you in the ballpark.
Important part after that… put it in and use a gps app to measure some...
My first car was this, but a convertible in white. Nice car. For all the relative “bigness” they don’t really weigh a lot more than the B-bodies. Meaning not a 6000lb car or anything, mine weighed in at 4300.
I don’t see why. If it were a bigger cam and you were trying to get back a tiny bit of bottom end then maybe. This is already mild, should be a tire burner as-is without any help.
Sorry, but as an engineer, I know the knowledge transfer to trade schools can be pretty poor. The bonding from color to clear has far more to do with chemistry than any mechanical effect, at least on the scale of orange peel.
There are numerous clears. Some aimed at full cars “glamour clears” and some aimed at touch up jobs and all steps in between. The glamour will have less orange peel than the touch up.
Another factor is the gun. An HVLP will make more orange peel than an “RP” or compliant gun. Often it’s the...
Changing that ratio isn’t so easy. Going higher would mean connecting to the pedal arm higher and therefore placing the master cylinder higher. The way this is normally done yields the same result but instead is achieved by going to a smaller bore master cylinder.
A 6:1 pedal vs a 4:1 pedal...
Had a solenoid stick on when starting my Roadrunner years ago. Revved the engine and spun the darn thing up to jet engine speed! When I took it apart the centrifugal force had pulled all the windings out and they were dragging to the point of press-fit in the housing.
Did that! In a buttery soft Aluminum VW Beetle head no less. What works after that is a carbide burr in a dremel. Hogged it all out with plenty of room for a helicoil.