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I think Calyx looks best, it'll stay looking good for 6-7 years then slowly age.
I just used KBS XTC ( XTC - High Temperature Paint - Header Paint - Stove Paint - Grill Paint ) on a john deere exhaust manifold on our ranches 4230....I've got 10 hours of run time on it since the in-frame and...
one of the tabs on the turn signal arm broke off of my original, otherwise there is nothing else wrong with it.
Is there not a replacement switch for a 1970 B-Body on the market?
Installing a new turn signal switch and im not trying to beat down a replacement part so much as I'm looking for solutions that other's have come up with. The Hazard Switch stalk does not fit the column in my 1970 Coronet R/T ( Console/Auto) Obviously I'm not going to grind open the hole in the...
Tony Tee....what you did there is AMAZING! There are some folks over on FABO who are wanting to repair their units as well.It's time to test your prototype(s) !!!!
I have collected 6 of them now trying to find a working one. ALL of the ones I have suffered a failure due to a dry rotted & cracked diaphragm. If you open one up you'll see what I'm talking about. They were never a serviceable part and were replaced. I'm tempted to use some flexible bike...
Because I already had some silicone foam laying around after using it as a firewall gasket material for the HVAC box on a 74 Ramcharger, I cut a strip that fit pretty good around the steering shaft that was 1" tall, sprayed Fluid Film all into the cavity, then applied grease and slid it in...
this is a 1970 Column from a 70 Coronet R/T, so it's floor shift, the extra part I have is for the key interlock (the part that makes it so that you can't put it in gear without the key in the run position or remove the key with the transmission in gear.
I've got a 70 Coronet R/T that I'm working on and was wondering if there's a solution (that my numerous searches haven't found yet) similar to bearing SER205-16 that other folks with column shift cars are using?
Or should I just stuff some foam between the key interlock shaft and the...
I decided a few hours ago I was tired of knowing I needed to take care of this leak and just started tearing into it without giving it much more thought than that. It's what I do :)
so I'm to this point, but don't have a tiny pneumatic right angle drill to put a few holes in it to pull with screws or a pick. anyone have any tips on how I should go about removing the seal from this point?
I'm about to go put my 70 R/T up on jackstands and knock this repair out myself...the same seal on mine leaks so bad It takes a pint of fluid just to go to the fuel station and back. I just finished up doing an in-frame engine rebuild on our John Deere 4230 last month, but to me this seems like...
Got the Moog K700534 end links delivered today so I bolted up my hokey tabs. I'm not happy with the angle of them so I'm thinking about buying some new U Bolt spring plates and welding on a gusseted tab that moves the sway bar end link forward and perhaps angles it a tad to not put so much...
when I filled it up, I only had one small leak which was fixed by putting a few more turns on the hose clamp on one of the vent lines.
I'm confused still on the vent lines, as one of them goes to the shallow end of the tank (rear), and the other goes to the deep end (front) but I'm unsure of...
Summit got the Stewart Warner Lifecell's I ordered faster than Amazon gets stuff to me these days, and today I got the tank re-installed using the same sending unit (the new one I ordered from RockAuto is MIA with Fedex). Everything works...kinda....the when I Ohm'd out the sending unit, it had...
This is the ONLY part keeping my fuel gauge from showing something and I found a crack in the float, so I used my mini butane torch and some electrical solder and filled the crack, re-soldered the seams, then tested it in a cup of water by holding it at the bottom and no bubbles.
My repair is...