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I was able to do a cold start yesterday, it definitely started better but did stumble a little on initial idle but quickly seemed to find itself. I did add a little fuel on a section once it got to about 140 deg. Last Wednesday I went to the DMV and got collector plates for the Charger as well...

My bad, you are correct. The wiring harness goes down to the bulkhead connector.

I was able to get some tuning done on the car today. I modified the tune I started with (that the wizard built via the 3.5 TSLCD), specifically I adjusted the fans turning both on about 5 deg sooner. Now the first fan comes on at 190 (vice 195) and the second comes on at 200 (vice 204). I also...

It can be pretty intimidating but it isn't all that difficult so long as you adhere to some basic rules; 1. save the tune that got the car running 2. only make 1 (maybe 2) changes at a time 3. always save the tune after you have uploaded it and made changes, then save it again when you are done...

Thats probably fine but I do know that there were differences in mini starters from various years. I found that 93-95 Dakota/Ram 360 variants work well.

I finally got back to the Charger and began by attempting to get my "tuner" laptop sorted out. I have an old Lenovo X200 that I've had since 08 that I like to use but it too needs some love. I wanted to replace the HDD in it but it would not recognize the new HDD. I tried to upgrade the Win7...

Well it has been awhile since I posted anything so I thought I would provide an update should anyone be watching. Unfortunately life got in the way of doing much until recently. I needed to give my 01 Ram 1500 Sport some love (had it since 02). I needed to address a few things but mainly I...

I understand what you are putting the starter into, I was asking what the starter is supposed to be for (i.e. mini starters were not around in 67 obviously). There are a number of different "mini" starters out there that were all designed for different applications, some fit better than other...

So what is the application your starter is for? I have put them in all of my cars (3) plus a number of friends cars (4) and they have always worked. I use one from a 93-95 Dakota or 1500 with a 360. Typically I remove the top electrical connection adapter as well.

You probably don't "need" to when the O ring is new but I would "just because".

Perfect example of why the hobby is dying, seller asking $32K and people here trying to justify it or something remotely close. This is a case of musical chairs and eventually the music is going to stop and all those with stupid money in these cars are going to be left crying. Its a cool car...

70 Challenger hands down.

Not a lot of options that don't look retarded or hinder seeing the other gauges. Back in the day we would just screw them to the top of dash but since those pads are now over $1000 I would not recommend that. Personally I would just get a rallye cluster but if that isn't an option then hung...

I beleive that the 71 B body is the same as the E bodies. Looking at your pictures I am pretty sure all of the holes are supposed to be there on the drivers side. I am not as confident on the passenger side.

#8 oval head screws, typically 1" to 3/4", I use SS versions. The originals had a slightly smaller head but unless you are doing a concourse car I'd use the more common and cheaper version you can get at any well stocked hardware store or buy from Amazon.

As noted the O.P. already has made up his mind and *Now is trying to get someone to talk him out of it by coming here. Obviously, he has never driven a big C body as they ride like big sofas, essentially blaming poor ride on years of abuse and most likely worn out suspension components.

I am not sure that a 1 wires is really an "upgrade" but you do you. You are on the right track overall, my advice is 1. google the bypass, its outlined in depth on pretty much every Mopar forum. 2. pre-pan all routing and use quality wire 3. take car in terminating your wires making sure to...

Also try US Car tool Fasteners

Look at the partial VIN stamp on the block right above the oil pan lip.

Thanks, I need to work on the tune.