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I'd saw away most of the flanges, and split them. I split all the flanges on my headers.
When each cylinder is independent of the others, the flanges don't need to be excessively thick.
A 496 might net breathe as well as a 512, but if I had a 383, a 496 is what I would do.... along with the best heads I could afford.
Edit. A 383/496 mopar has the exact same bore/stroke as the 454/stroked to 496 that the chevy guys all love.
I'd research how hard it is to find a replacement, and how much it would cost. Then make decision off that info.
Since I'm betting the scar is exactly where the new bearing will be..... I'd smooth the edges, give it a light polish.... and run it.
Doug is saying you'll need 512cu inches to get to 500rwhp. I think that's probably around 650 crank hp to get to 500 rwhp with an auto (my opinion only).
That is a completely unrealistic goal for a mom in law driving 383.
To be honest, for someone unfamiliar with a bbm, I'd think 450 crank...
I don't really care for the conical seat "bulge" nuts for most guys, because most of the time they require longer studs all around. I have some and I use them, cause I already have 3" studs on everything that's fast, but I still prefer mag style lugs.
I absolutely agree, on the direct fit Cragars.
Do what DVW tells you to do. He is the master.
Edit: calculate the compression ratio for the 906s with around 88-90 cc's, not the 75 or so that Mopar says they are (they lied).
Clean the mouse turds out of the 906s, and get a estimate to freshen them up/valve job. I'm betting the 440 source...
I'd calculate the compression ratio (requires measurements) for both the 906s, and some 440 source stealth heads. TF are real nice, not necessary for a driver. I'd probably not put any money into 906s.
If it's too high for pump gas, I'd wack off the domes (assuming solid dome) and rebalance...
Just my opinion, it looks like a Detroit (or other brand, grizzley?) locker to me.
A new 8 3/4 locker alone is around $800.
As said above, it is certainly NOT a spool.
I'm pretty sure the bottom four on the left are tens.
The a-bodies in the box on the right are nines, I think. I think there are two versions of the bottom far right, nine and ten. (I THINK. I could easily be wrong.)
Bottom line: you'll have to find out if your wheels need 9" or 10" caps before shopping for what you like. Original 63 b-body caps would be ten inch.
(It looks like early A-body caps from 5 on 4 wheels can be used on the later 9"cap 5 on 4 1/2 wheels. They might be a great choice too?)
I'm guessing you'll be stuck with the later wheels that use the smaller caps. That's what I'm using as one of my wheels/tires setups on my 62. I'm currently using 67 Barracuda caps, cause I had them. I've also used the Dodge redline caps.
IMO, any cap you wanna use is okay with me. I'm not one...
I'll admit, I'm curious. I would have guessed finding a WIDER axle would be a lot easier than widening one. Most axles getting narrowed is to get a heavier, stronger axle to fit in a smaller car. (Or, more tire room!) Going the other way is odd.
Cranky, was that an 8 3/4?
Currently watching mad mad mad mad world. Great car movie, loaded with 50s/62s mopars. Not a single vehicle in the movie I'd throw off my driveway, including the metropolitan!
Unbelievable cast! Every comedian that was working in Hollywood, and lots of straight actors too.
I borrowed a GPS unit from a friend for a service call. Worked fine for what I needed.
For giggles, I turned it on a mile from my house on my way home. It directed me in the exact opposite direction, and then installed me in an unending loop around the block..... RT turn here, rt turn here, rt...