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So are we saying everything is working as expected or that I should make changes? I’m still surprised there’s no direct connection between the alternator and battery. Seems like a long, complicated path of wiring to charge the battery.

Okay, my mind is blown. First, I deleted the ballast resister and cleaned up that ugly Union. Several wires are still connected, but I used a stud and ring terminals on each wire (crimped, soldered, and hear shrink). At idle I got the following: - Sniper screen: 12.5v - Battery: 12.7v -...

Sorry for the lengthy delay. Had some family in town and was much more eager to spend time with them than on the internet. First, 1 Wild R/T I can’t thank you enough for the last part of your post. The internet (and forums specifically) are so full of judgement and hate, it’s refreshing to see...

Update time. Picked up a brand new regulator for a 1968, it looks exactly like the “1969 & earlier style” 1 Wild R/T posted. Removed the previous regulator, installed the new one. Wiring is as follows: - 12V ignition into passenger side of the ballast resister - driver’s side of ballast...

Thank you so much! I’ll report back when I have a new regulator in hand. This car was restored over 20 years ago. I can’t imagine how the previous owner dealt with the lack of charging all that time.

Yes sir, I definitely have the 1970 and up style based on the pictures you provided. I suppose the next step is to buy a pre-70 regulator?

A few extra / new notes. Most important) I ran a wire straight from the battery to the alternator field terminal. Changing the engine RPM resulted in an increase in voltage. Around 3,500 rpm the voltage was around 15.5 volt and I let off. This tells me the alternator is good. 1) I verified...

Don, I did try both regulators (new and old). No difference in voltage output. I could try a third if you think that‘d be helpful. Are there any component tests I can do on the regulator to verify whether or not it’s functional? Leo, I will give that a try. Two additional points I should have...

Hello everyone, new to the Mopar world and looking for some help on a ‘68 Roadrunner 383 that’s not charging. Sniper EFI screen shows 12.2 volts, dash gauge is dead center on the line between charge and discharge. - New alternator (correct for year / single field), tested by O’Reillys to Be...