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Based on your description, sounds like the gauges are toast. When that original mechanical 5 volt regulator goes and applies full battery volts to the gauges that kills them. Contact Todd, he's the guy for restoring first gen Charger gauge clusters. He does excellent work with a great...
Just another bit of commentary to expand on this...
You could loosen the strap and rotate the motor and headlamp bucket which would indeed change relationship of the adjust screw on the inner side of the buckets unto the limit switches. The motors MUST be firmly contained in the mounting...
The bolts-screws on the strap, or plate that holds the motor in place are NOT adjusting screws. When you say " wound up in a ball and it pulled the male plug out of the female plug"....that would suggest that the motor was physically rotating in it's mount as that retaining strap was loose and...
I also have a white interior. It is in excellent condition, so not intending on replacing any of the the covers, however I do have some yellowing of the "piping", which is the vertical and horizontal cylindrical edge trims on the upholstery. Anyone have suggestions what might be used to...
The headlight motors have two windings, one is for opening direction the other is for closing direction. The outer case is ground, or common, to both windings. If the motor does not move in either direction with voltage applied as you indicate, it's possible that either the windings could be...
I have a 66 and looking at my shop manual schematics, I see some slight differences in the wiring between 67 and my 66. In both cases, the voltage for tail lights comes from terminal "B" on the headlamp switch. On my 66, it's a black wire, designated L-7 on the schematic and wire table. That...
I do not believe that the maker of that video had intentions of it being an exhaustive and detailed engineering study of DC motors or motor theory. It's just a simple demonstration of what the current draw is in a basic starter setup under a simulated mechanical load. Bar type shunts of the...
Here's a good video that demonstrates typical starter current draw with a variable mechanical load.
The DC current measurement method here uses a "shunt" type device, which is basically a metal bar that has a specific very low resistance. The load...
Good to hear you got it running.. Something common to the big block engines is excessive wear of the fuel pump push rod. Something you may want to check before you have problems. Many threads here if you search that topic.
Assuming you have a good battery, and a solid ground (battery minus) to engine block as well as the car's chassis.
In a stock points ignition system it works like this....
The ignition switch, in the start-cranking position, routes full battery voltage to the coil + terminal...
in my opinion, Holley Retrobrights is the way to go. Bought em for my 66 Charger. Truly plug-N- play, no modifications required, no screwing around. Available in different color temperatures, so be sure you are ordering what you prefer. Pricey but well worth it...
Fo those curious.... Here is what's inside what I believe was an original factory orange box. Also included is a schematic of this orange box. The box had a black potting material which was a semi flexible, semi sticky, non liquid filling that interestingly did not really adhere to the parts...
I've had a real Mopar orange box that died apart to draw a schematic of the guts out of my own curiosity The one you sliced open appears to have about 80% less parts than the real deal. Looks like whoever built that one used a minimal design concept. Doubt it has much longevity..
From what I see in the picture in the link for the Summit unit, what should be a JDEC TO-3 style transistor looks like a cosmetic fake (the silver color thing) .
A real TO-3 case transistor would not have the overly rounded edges. (See below pix ) Real TO-3 style transistors, like in the...