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The closest I could come to giving any type of “broad range” starting point for carb jetting advice would be…….. and even this needs a qualifier stipulating that the carb in question is appropriate for the application………. Start with the factory jetting, and adjust from there.

Great idea!!

I doubt it would be too hard to sell a fairly fresh, decent running 383. Then apply that $$$ to something bigger. However, I wouldn’t bother going through the trouble unless I was planning to up the displacement into the 500” range..

If you’re considering using the reworked crank, then I’d have a shop that does crank grinding give it a look over and verify it’s in usable condition. If it is, then you can use it to build a 432 with a 383 block, or a 451 with a 400 block.

IMO, the best, most cost effective use of a 440 crank……..is to put it in a 440 block. Paired with pistons and rods commensurate with the rest of the build, of course.

For future reference, it’s helpful to know what you’re working with. On a big block with stock heads, all the ex studs go into the water jackets. Normally you’d remove the nuts and hope the studs stay in the heads.

Is the plan to install the engine and get a test drive or two in prior to snow flies? Or swap it over the winter and be ready for the start of next season?

Nice pick up for sure!! .40 by 330ft.

My feeling is basically that, if a new cam/lifter fails within 1000 miles, it started that process(of failing) during the break in. Watching the Powell machine videos I saw enough evidence of poorly machined lifters to know that there are going to be cases where they are the culprit responsible...

Most of the common 4150 “1050’s” have a 1.59” venturi. If that’s what you have, with downleg boosters they generally use pretty big jets, but admittedly I’ve never run one on a combo as mild as yours. I’d leave the secondaries alone for starters, and would try 84-85’s in the front with a 6.5pv...

In my mind that’s been pretty much SOP for several years. I tell my customers, if you don’t do it, and it eats a cam……. It’s just shame on you. They get the same story about the break in oil.

What size are the HS air bleeds? Does it have downleg or annular boosters? I’d suspect it’ll be happier on the street with less primary jet, provided the air bleeds aren’t too big. I’d also lean towards a higher rating PV to go along with the smaller jets.

Don’t wanna spend the big bucks(and you’re feeling lucky)? This cam works great with 1.6 rockers. Not a Comp fan? Oregon cam grinders has a version of that cam. Howard’s has one very close as well.

You’re in the drivers seat. There are plenty of cam grinders and lifter suppliers to choose from.

In stock at Summit.

I was getting 71 for the Comp, using the adv duration and the lsa, which doesn’t agree with the open/close numbers(72). Then I saw that the open close numbers are 1 deg off on int(286) and ex(298) from the adv duration numbers. The Lunati is 105 based on the advertised(which is at some...

Fortunately, the car isn’t currently broken, so there is no rush to make the swap. Not odd at all. The 528 has way less overlap than the 509.

Mechanically quieter and smaller than the current cam…….. Put the old 509 back in.

If I’m counting it right, Kerns current BB is sporting a 3/2 ratio for cam survival. 3 wiped(2 Comps and the 528) 2 survived(509 and Lunati) All you can do is try and stack the deck in your favor. Don’t use the fastest lobes, only as much spring as you need, good high zinc oil, proper break in...

The easiest remedy would be a pump adjustment, so that’s the logical place to start.