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I guess I’ve gotten lucky and used the correct sized carb for my application like you said. I usually over analyze and pick brains like crazy though and have reasonably common combos so that’s probably why I’ve made out pretty good. Plenty of more qualified members on here to comment other than me.

It's always got me atleast somewhat close on my mild street engines anyway. Alot of combos on here jet wise end up being in a similar ballpark. I am not saying its an end all be all but seems to be alot end up in that range.

Couple of my buddies that build engines always said you usually wanna see 6-8 jet size differences between primary and secondary sizing as a good baseline for a street motor. Obviously if you are shooting for huge power at the track this may change, but a good place to start.

Well the pink wire does indeed turn on the screen and power the ECU so thats one bit I figured out this morning.

My ignition switch is in a 68 Charger so not sure which would apply. I also wondered about grabbing power under hood and sending it through the firewall if that would keep the starter from activating constant. Maybe from both ballast wires and link them separately so they dont feed eachother and...

Just thinking outside the box is all. I run the stock ignition, so if I want to do it “right” I will have to grab power from both the brown crank and blue run power wires and send them both to the pink wire on the ECU trigger wire. Also wasn’t sure if it would surge the ECU when the power cuts...

So it doesn't get forgotten about and left on? It would be the same as if you were hooking it up on a drag car and turned the main power switch on and it went live I'd think.

Could we just run the pink wire to the battery as well with a switch to it to toggle on before/when you also turn the ignition key on? It would double as a kill switch for the car. I would think the amperage draw would be small on that circuit as it is just the trigger wire for the Holley ECU...

Just the housing and cap are worth that! :thumbsup:

Yup and you can use a shorter filter instead of the drop base if you only need 1/2" or so also to keep more air moving into the carb. Less restrictive.

Also see my post from awhile back on filter heights with the part numbers listed for the unsilenced air cleaner. This is how I gained hood clearance without dropping too much with a drop base. All you need is 1/2" or so which the filter will do. See the above info I figured out.

The charger I did not. That engine was built from scratch by myself. The roadrunner I did and it seemed to definately pick up some steam from the intake swap. The 383 in the Runner has 68 906 steel heads that have some serious port work and blending done and always ran really strong. It did...

I have an RPM performer in my 68 Charger using the drop base from mancini racing to clear the hood on the stock air cleaner. Thats a 440 block stroked to 500" so you might be able to get away with the stock air cleaner base being a 383 low deck motor. I also run one in my Roadrunner with the 383...

Buy the RPM Performer dual plane which is completely different from the standard performer. It will give you the best power band for the street available.

I did not.......it's close but it is probably just the style of the shock. I usually don't turn full lock anyway as my car is manual steering and a 4 speed, so I usually calculate my direction so it doesn't involve cranking the wheel like crazy haha!

Yep they worked out well so far. Seem to have enough length to not bind and don't rub anything.

Should be no problem with the correct bearing retainer from brewers. They let you run different combos that originally wouldn't be able to do with their billet retainers. Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

Thanks man! Any other pics or info let me know as I will try and be as helpful as I can be.

Ended up being a piece of the old gasket stuck on the engine around the exhaust manifold port. I scraped it off and put a new gasket on and no problems since. Factry never had gaskets, but it's 50yr old metal so I figured a gasket wouldn't hurt. This was on the engine side not the flange side.

Just remember too you are gonna want some sort of roller or slippery/non friction plate on the tail for then the cable goes over the back and then pulls down towards the vehicle until its up the ramps half way or so. I used a piece of nylon sheeting the couple times I had to winch my Runner up...