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That is a 2 wire alternator. I see the one wire has been spliced. One wire should be hot with the key on (factory blue wire). The other is normally green and feeds from the regulator. The regulator should be the flat style with the triangle shaped plug. If the ground at the battery and the...

I would stich pin it also. Doug

Adding positive caster lowers the attachment point of the outer tie rod. If the outer tie rod is lowered it will eventually cause bump steer. 2-3 degrees positive is plenty of caster. Run the camber -1/2 to 0 unless you are trying to autocross or do trackdays. Doug

Do both. Then freeze your *** off in the dark because there's not enough daylight. I know. Doug

At least you found that before you had them ported. A friend with a set of Stage V Hemi heads had his CnCed. 30 passes later, they were junk. Doug

Just as intended, stealth. Doug

I've been fortunate enough to have this beauty in my garage and get the close up view. It is remarkable. Doug

For sure It's about ring seal. Assists with ring flutter and helps the ring seal in the piston groove. Pumping loss due to reduced crankcase pressure is an additional benefit. You won't find a high end wet sump engine without one if it's allowed by rules. Doug

I never swap out reverse bands unless they are damaged. My racecar has had the same kickdown band since 2014. Close to 900 runs. Looks like new everytime it's been torn down. Doug

The firewall will bend even with the floor pan attached. Depends on how far you want to go. Mine kinked slightly but was and easy repair befor paint. I like you ides with the trans tunnel. Doug

Either will work. When the current block didn't have the ear at the front the block idea was out. I came up with the transmission ear idea. Didn't know if it was strong enough when it was built. But they have proven themselves. Run the heims 90 degrees to each other to elimnate bind. These just...

Remove the torsion bar adjusters, strut rod nuts, pop the knuckles loose at upper ball joint, remove the torsion bar pivot stud nuts. Then tap on the pivot studs with a piece of brass. It'll all come out together. Doug

I've done Hemi springs in the car years ago. Used the standard bolt on the shaft tool. But instead of the straight handle I used a curved handle for setting lift bars on a trailer. Drilled a hole and welded a nut at the bottom. Then ran a bolt in so it wouldn't pivot around on the tool base. Doug

Call Jeff Day at Precision Machine. Maybe he or his Dad will remember them. Doug

It has to have a fore/aft limiter. Put it where it's the easiest. I've used the hole down below the fuel pump seen in this picture. Weld a tube vertically in the K frame sticking up at the same height as the block ear. Then run a bolt through the block hole (requires a reducer sleeve) to the...

I ran one many years ago with a 4 speed. It didn't bog but it wasn't fast either. Running on just the center carb with the outers disconnected was much faster up tp about 3700 rpm. Doug

Make sure the regulator is grounded well. If it isn't, it will over charge. I'm assuming this is an original single feed wire (along with the thick bolt on battery feed) style alternator. Doug

I agree the 9 second zone is more intense. I didn't mine doing the cage and other minor stuff. The pain in the but is recertifying the cage every 3 years. The don't do anything except a 5 minte sonic check on a few bars. What is the hell is that? They learn nothing. If it certed the first time...

Anyone can do a nice job. Just depends if you want to take the time. My cage took a while. But I was told if if was going to be tigged to fit the tubes tight. So tight it was. Doug

I had trouble with vacuum leaks that I thought were at teh corner of the tray. Turns out it was the very upper corner of the head gasket. Not much clamp load in that area. Now during builds a little Ultar Grey is added at the top 1/2" or so of the head gasket surfaces. The first time fixed it...