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It's always great when members can help other members!!!

My knees are getting where they hurt all the time and the feet not so much but my back doesn't hurt nearly as bad as it did when I was still working but lately, I'm working too much!

My 64 Dart has a dealership emblem on it. The car still has the original paint which isn't the nicest looking stuff but the emblem isn't premo either. Don't know if the dealership is still in business or not. The 'store' my 66 Belvedere came from is still run by the family but no longer sells...

Happy Belated Zac! :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday:

:bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday: :bday:

Never saw any of that around here but think that's a good idea! The stuff made in the states could/should have used the LT additive during the 70/80's. I quit using the GTX in around the mid 80's after complete tearing down a 360 Dodge engine. That's when I finally realized what was going on...

What was the time period that you were using it? I started using it in 73 shortly after buying my motorcycle. Bought it used but it had very few miles on it and the local Honda dealer carried the GTX and they recommended it. Figured if it was good enough for the bike turning 9k it was good...

You would think that the formulation has been changed after all these years! The stuff really kept the engine clean but it was kinda hard on parts.

Well, imo, the spiders have slowly moved slightly to a new pattern over the years and there's not enough slack or excessive clearance to hurt things. I've done a bunch of these things since the 80's and even maintained one for a buddy that was racing a fully optioned out 70 Challenger RT that...

And well, informative to say the least....but....this is an ad....Guilty.

Had both of those years ago when I was parting cars in the mid 70's into the early 80's. Never thought much about the difference....

If it's the first time to machine the cones, I don't worry about them but anything after, I'll shim them. Used to get my shims from the Ferd dealership. Also, don't machine more then .025" from the cone's faces.....no need to go more than that and will last for many years. Years back someone...

Yup....lol. On a serious note....don't care to use a tall burner stand. Someone probably makes one but man, that would be a pretty large air fryer. Had a small one and man, pita to clean. :rofl::poke:

You can also measure across the shoes and that will also tell you the difference.....

Nice stuff but when prices get involved, the thread turns into a sale thread? Yennes can probably help the ones that live on his side of the 'pond' and yet let us on the other side to see some incite on the procedure......let's not turn this into an ad. Thanks.

Man, I've forgotten all the numbers......but a 400 block and 440 crank makes 451 iirc. That's also a good combo. Don't know about the 383 combos since the bore is smaller as I like big bore engines.

I remember oil was in a 5 gallon container years ago.....and also remember paying 49 cents a pound for brisket and you could get turkeys for.....heck, fer cheap!

A 400 block will respond better than a 383 will. Imo, keep the 383 stock stroke but use a better rod and lighter piston and spool more rpm. It will surprise you. The 400 block has a bigger bore than a 440 it will also surprise you. It'll produce more low end torque and will still move well on...

Who rebuilt the 383 and what cam and what is it degreed at? The cam can make or break the performance of any engine especially if it's not degreed in.....I like to 'advance' a smaller cam to get the engine more happy down low. Smaller cams is anything .500 lift or less and will even advance a...

Blended with what?