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Stage 6 heads. No stainless fire ring that I remember. It's been some years back and I doubt stainless was used then. It definitely left a lasting impression on me. Lot of repair work. A problem with stainless steel is that it doesn't conform easely . Your bore size and chamfer are big players.

I don't think any of the mopar felpro gaskets have stainless fire rings; unless something has changed. I think some Chevy gaskets do have a stainless steel ring. The mopar gaskets I've used are just tin plated carbon steel. Stainless is a plus. The o-ring wire in some gaskets won't save your...

The larger the bore the greater the failure rate. When the fire ring burns thru it torches the alum between the cylinders cutting a groove in the head surface. Why even think about or try to talk yourself into this when all you have to do is pick a safer gasket and be done with it. I'm pretty...

40yrs ago may be a rough cut. I wouldn't take a chance on cometics unless i was absolutely sure of deck finish.

Unless something has drastically changed with the 1009 gasket they're the kiss of death on a big bore. Use a 8519, or 1039, or the marine gasket. I don't give a damn what trick flow, edelbrock or any body else says

I don't think the breather attached to the air cleaner has any adverse effect; especially if the engine has good ring seal and the pcv is good.

I was concerned about fuel distribution with small primaries, dual plane intake and progressive linkage. Never happened with ch28. All plugs burn equally and clean. Surprised me. The only problem ( if you want to call it one) is the primaries on the back carb won't support interstate speed. When...

may not be what anyone wants to hear, but i'd sell the iron intake to a collector or restorer and get a ch28. the ch28 is a very good street intake with a nice broad torque band. very easy tune with the edlbrock 600's. maybe the best and least troublesome intake/carb combo i've ever used.

I prefer progressive for street use.

Clean the threads up in the block with a tap. Don't try and get the threads deeper. The plug doesn't have to sit flush. It's just there to plug the hole. You can use Teflon tape or paste; either is good.

Interesting. My thoughts about the wedges are that Chrysler basically quit on upgrades after the early 1964 super stock cars in favor of the hemi's. The 6paks had some upgrades but nothing like the hemi engine. Chrysler never had the money Ford or GM had. They always tried to make something out...

I have a set of 3/8" straight pipe dies just for playing with the pick up.

when the pick up boss gets trashed the only solution to keeping the block is external pick up. been there, done that!

Try bleeding the system.it may take a few times to really get the air out. Check all connections to make sure they're snug. Make sure the distribution block isn't full of junk. I have an a- body disc, 11"drums in back , 1" master cylinder on my 65 dodge and the pedal is firm. It's not a perfect...

Something to watch for if the threads are stripped is sand inclusions in the block. I had a 383 were the boss just fell apart during thread repair due to sand pockets in the boss.

Wheel houses may be different on wagons. I have good tire clearance.

275 with 8" wheel in back, 215-75 on 6" wheel up front. No clearance issues front or back.

I used 215-75x15 on 5 .5" steel wheels and 275-60's on 8"-4.5" backspace steel wheels on my 65 coronet once. No fitment issues.

I've done pin juggleing . Not complicated. Variety of pins out there.

I've done the bushing LY rod thing before. It's really not straightforward. Some of the forgings look like the top and bottom dies aren't perfectly aligned. Notice how the pin hole will look offset on one side and ok on the other side. To do it right you'll probably need a couple sets of rods...