Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If money is the driving factor then don't do a G3 because it will get expensive. Sure you can keep the costs down but to do this you will be making compromises that you probably won't be happy with.
I still have not fired up my 71 Charger (although this is mainly because I have been...
The spring thing is not a Mopar option I do not believe, I have never seen one before in over 50 yrs of messing with these cars (but I never say never).
The lights getting brighter is a normal thing for this era of car, it can be (read should be) corrected by installing relays in the wiring...
Then the socket crimp has become loose. You can remove the housing and use a punch to try and tighten up the crimp to get a better ground which will work for awhile.
I prefer to solder a wire to the socket (easy to do) and then run that wire to a body fastener/screw. This will ensure a good...
I think I posted it here but I am using the Holley single plane intake and at least right now I am using the Mopar DBW TB that came with the crate engine. I have an idea of making an adapter for the Mopar 440 AG intake but we will see how that plays out.
That’s pretty cool, I am interested in your findings as well. I thought about laying the hood on there a few weeks ago but I know that I would start down that path and I am not ready for that just yet.
So I got this sorted out today. I ended up moving the trans up 1/2" (using the 2 spacers that came with the TKX kit) and adding 2.5 deg shims to the rear end. I just need to replace the piece I cut out and we are back in the game.. LOL
Well the TTI mounts couldn't mount the engine much lower because the oil pan is about an inch from the K frame.
As it turns out, I really would have only had to massage 1 spot on the floor plan and all of this would have been good. I really didn't need to cut out what I did.
After some research/investigation and measuring I have arrived at that I need about 2 degrees down on the rearend or so. I "may" not have had to cut the floor open but I am still not sure. It is not just the angle of the trans but that of the driveline and in order to get it "in spec" (according...
Funny you should mention that... LOL With the trans pushed all the way up I can get 3 deg. I need to jack up the rearend to ride height and measure the entire driveline angle. Tremec has an app for this which is stupid easy (not that its all that hard anyway).
Thanks but this isn't perfection, this is a necessity. If this angle is bad it will destroy the driveline (U joints, seals, bearings, etc). It will also vibrate at speed.
Nothing can ever be easy... LOL
So as I was preparing to build my exhaust system I could not help but notice that the collectors seemed to be pointed downward. At first I dismissed it and just thought about how I was going to get the exhaust angled up to nearer the floor but then it dawned on...
While I wait on the MAT, I started working on the exhaust. The first thing I always do is modify the collectors, I add a small piece of pipe into the collector which helps to keep the gaskets from blowing out. These small/short pipes are welded inside the collectors.
I got this idea from...
So I heard back from Holley and they told me that I needed temp sensor 56028364 which I have. I went and took a hard look at the connection and something is just not right here, there is NO way that this will connect with either temp sensor I have (the one I mentioned and the one you guys told...