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:lol:

Just your opinion, of course

Same than on 71… inner fender at a side of the batt.

Is not the max output what is the important, but the capacity at iddle. Of course the max output indicates it will charge more at iddle, but also depends on design. If going with an original Mopar stock look alt, something able to source around 40-50 amps at iddle, which tipically are the 78-80...

Yes, switch needs to be grounded to test the system.

Just for 71, and not every hideaways car. Really rare option in fact. “Easier” to see on C bodies.

Why do you need to replace it? Went bad and stopped to charge or noise? As mentioned, it could be serviced at home with basic tools. Diodes, stator and rotor can be diagnosed with a regular multitester. No rocket science on these. I would go HOWEVER (as usually advice) with an alt upgrade...

Well, looking at the grills, tail lights extra chrome and wider rocker molding you could tell is an SE still with emblems missed ( including hood medallion ) EDITING… also looking at the cluster, since Rallye cluster was part of the packages on Rallyes and SEs only.

Just 73 option… not available on 74. Still coded as WP29 on VIN thought

The washers switch for headlights is activated by a switch underneath the dash frame, where the ACCs switch are instaled

It could be a temporally high beams button for warning signals while driving. That’s a feature most older cars don’t have but news which you can give even with lights off. Although old European cars got. I have thought on add that feature somehow later (when reassembling my Charger).

LOL. Just a couple of slight punch at two diff points will do the job

I’m wondering why ChryCo never got designed and built its own Tilt column system instead get it from Saginaw(GM). Its a nice feature but ugly assembly unmatched with any car of the ChryCo lines. Not even with C bodies/Imperials (more common option on them).

Read the related threads about the “satanic ammeter” LOL. And I said the fuse link becomes useless IF keeping the cab-alt wire. Why? Because in case of a short STILL if the fuse link blows, the power to feed it is still alive through the alt-cab wire. If was removed, is a diff story and then is...

I got the 1.06” FIRM FEEL T Bars for my Big Block and honestly I could be happy also with the 1” Bars. Thicker makes raise a lot the front end with barely move the adjusting bolt. Better not too thick for a fine adjustment

As far I recall, SB TBs 73 and lates are 0.92” while BB are 0.96”. Larger diameter than earliers due the extended lenght for the divorced TB rear Crossmember.

Ammeter delete is not a must in 90% of the cases. Running a wire between alt and batt keeping the factory one between alt and cab makes the factory fuselink useless Factory wire between batt and starter relay is 10 gauge.

I guess you wanted to mean volts About the amps through the system… that’s not controlled by the alt, but by the car (accs, operation) request. The car (including a discharged batt if that stage floats on) will continue requesting SAME amps no matter the alt you have. The more accs activated...

Volts