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Good question.. In my 70RR with electronic ignition I installed a tach from Red Line Guages, basically a VDO inside but with a rescreened front to match the other Mopar guages. The VDO works fine with MSD and Mopar ignitions. Note that Red Line is local to me in SoCal and they do the custom...

Keep in mind... The OE tic/toc tach is not compatible with any type of electronic ignition system, only works correct with the analog OE ignition system. The tach may register RPMs but it will not be accurate. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Hmmm.. Did a little more research.. Chrysler did build some 1963 model cars with the T-10 transmission. This was done mostly to counteract the marketing street charisma of the 4-speed 406 and 409 cars... Most likely... The T-10 was available for 6 cylinders, 318, 361 and 383 equipped cars...

Yup... I recall I think 63/64 didn't yet have a 4 speed was stuck with the B/W T-85 3 speed or torqueflite. I was told Chrysler did build some max wedges with the B/W T-10 but they didn't handle the higher max-wedge torque, so it was dropped. Then they developed their own A-833 4 speed which...

To my knowledge certain drag strips and maybe the NHRA outlawed the Neutral Drop Start, very hard on certain components... :rolleyes: Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

U are correct... Back then some cars ran the B&M hydo, but its 1st gear was too low besides being very heavy in weight.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

I have posted this previously... There is a major voltage loss using our Mopar OE incadescent headlights and factory wiring. LED headlights are less dependent on voltage and draw significantly less current while providing a brighter, wider light dispersion. For my choice of LEDs I went with...

Basic idea of the headlight relay kit is to provide a higher voltage to the OE incadescent lights for increased brightness. For me, and my 70RR I upgraded to LED headlights which draw about 70% less current than incadescents.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

Maybe somebody else came up with the scheme.. But B&M was the 1st one I recall for drag racing applications,.. Also note that the same scheme was applied to other brands drive-trains including Ford and GM. Maybe somebody else beside B&M was doing it, don't know about that.. :rolleyes:

Here U go.. Contact Crackback. https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/members/crackedback.462/ Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

The Clutchflite was an automatic transmission scheme developed by B&M (Van Nuys, CA) in the 60s specifically for drag racing, usually a Mopar running a Hemi or Max Wedge. It was basically a 727 Chrysler torqueflite that had a shortened bellhousing. In place of a torque converter, the Clutchflite...

The displayed package of clutch fan, Mopar #P4120758 has some inaccuracies. The clutch fan is incorrect, the mounting hub should have (4) closed holes not slots. The slots are typically used with a universal, clutch fan. See the attached picture for more details. I don't mean to cause any...

In troubleshooting the wiring of the steering column and turnsignal switch, I found this article to be helpful.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

I have had my 70RR for 25 years.. Living in SoCal and driving through the hills and canyons to Malibu beach frequently, I wanted to update its handling. So I did the following: 1. Added Koni shocks (x4) 2. Increased size of the torison bars 3. Installed Flaming River quick-ratio steering box...

To me.. Can't say one is better they are both equal and are far superior to the standard, conventional OE shocks. I have Konis' on my RR and Bilsteins on my Nissan Rogue and Dodge Dakota. The 1st vehicle I put Bilsteins' on was my Toyota Tacoma that came with KYBs, the ride handling was much...

When I built my 70RR I wanted better shocks, the only real shock upgrade available was the Konis'.. But now the Bilstein's are also available, the nice thing about the Koni's are that they are adjustable. IMHO... The Bilstein's and Koni's are far superior to the Kyb's and Monroes', they are more...

As requested... Here is a bottoms up image for the reference air cleaner lid.... Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:

OK. No problem will do tomorrow. Pls note I am down to (1) unit as (1) has a pending sale. Thanks for ur interest.

1970-1972 Mopar Air Cleaner Lids Fresh Air-Style With N96 Option Have (2) fiberglass units, both are in great condition in orange hemi paint and no cracks Aftermarket metal reproduction units sell for $125 and higher Selling for $45 each plus shipping(Located in SoCal) Payment by Money Order or...

Correct... A fuseable link can handle a higher, momentary current than a fast-blow fuse. Slow-blow fuses are available through electronic specialists and generally start out with an MDL prefix.. Just my $0.02... :thumbsup: