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Me too. I like tru tracs as well. It'll just depend on how much I want to spend and what's in stock. I'm just cleaning up the case and pinion bearings, replacing the seal and installing the posi, setting backlash. Axle bearings and seals are new already. Thanks for the info guys.

No clue, that's why I'm asking.

I am going to buy a detroit true track or locker for my 742 case and just wondered what part number you used? I looked on Summit and they didn't break it down into case numbers. Thanks in advance.

I put the caliper in a vise and tried to compress the piston more but it didn't move. It's not the first time I've come across this woeking with performance afrermarket parts. But I got it and it looks great. I can't wait to feel how well these brakes stop over the old ones.

Oh, and I tried on one of my 66 and earlier wheels and it fit! Woot!

Today I made big progress, finally. I replaced the wheel cylinders, tightened all the fittings in the rear and got the drums back on. Did I mention it was 100* with 70% humidity? I moved up front and installed the grease seal using my bearing race and it worked great. I got the rotor on and had...

Brian, clear out your private message box please.

I received wheel cylinders, rear brake hose, and replacement front grease seal. I scrounged around and found a T5 output shaft bearing race that just squeezes over the seal and I will use that to tap it into place and then the rotor can finally go on. I installed the rear brake hose too, got...

What's wrong with the green bearings?

Looking at those shoes in the picture, it almost looks like they weren't hitting the drum? Wondering if the wheel cylinder was frozen?

I cannot remember if I did the rear brakes on this. I don't think I touched them, but they have new shoes and one new part, the self adjuster cable. The drums are even new. I am going to swap wheel cylinders so that way my entire system will be new and I can use DOT5 fluid. I may change my mind...

Since I was waiting on parts, I decided to start replacing brake lines. I got the ones installed on the rear housing and the one that runs down the framerail to the metering block. Everything fit pretty well, and my tubing straightener tool worked geeat!

I hit another parts wall. I was installing the grease seal on the new rotor and I fubar'd it. So out it came and replacement is in tomorrow, along with both rear wheel cylinders, along with rear brake hose. It never ends. I did get the suspension rebuild done, strut rods installed and tightened...

Will these work for an E body? If not, what's the difference?

I am looking for cruise control parts, wiring, servo, cables, stalk, etc. I would like to find a 70 or 71 stalk, doesn't matter if it's C body or any other. I need the stuff for my 70 E body and to retrofit my 66 Coronet, as I plan to drive the wheels off of it. Thanks on advance.

I got it. I will want a couple of these diaphrams. I may scrounge up cruise control to put on my 66 coronet. I've been thinking a lot about that lately. @Tony Tee

I'll be following along.

Next step is the passenger side suspension. I got the drum off and noticed something wierd with it. The front edge of the lower control arm was rubbing the kmember. I went to remove the torsion bar retainer clip, and the torsion bar was about 1.5" forward in the crossmember. I guess I really...

I grabbed one if the rotors out of the box after cerifying it was the left side rotor. I packed the bearings by hand. Back story to that is the bearing packer I've had since the 80s, a lisle unit, has a large crack from the center outward, so in the trash it went. It was sad, as I've used that...

I realized I made a mistake when it was a pain to get the lower control arm nut started and a wrench on it. I did it differently on the passenger side.