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If its not engaging the flywheel, is the gear actually kicking out ?!?!

And you think all that can be done by your local optometrist ?!?!? LOL !!

LOL !! I installed LED taillights. The flashers/signals weren't working. I bought 6 new relays of different types - electronic ones, ones with ground pigtails and a few more. Ended up using both originals (one round one square) but one needed the leads flipped. AND, they will only work where...

Wouldn't you want it where you can see it ?!?

Isn't he the guy listing small parts for sale on a daily basis ?? When did he pass ?

To your credit, you clued me in, I just editted his photo to clarify !! We can split the prize money three ways !!!

And of course Dadsbee is right on top of it !! :)

1 and 2 are kick panels - the notches are where the screws pass through 3 and 4 go above the kick panels ath the dash ends (i put my dash in and only then found these pieces and they can't go in aftewards !!)

The electrical system is a "demand" system, in other words current only goes where its needed. That said, if everything on the passenger side of the bukhead only draws a total of 30 amps it doesn't matter if the alternator is cranking out 100 amps in the engine compartment - the only flow...

Chinese or not, most break before the target object comes out. The best method IMHO is reverse carbide drill bits. Generally the broken bolt will come out while drilling. If not, just keep enlarging the hole till you can peel the threads out !!

Whether its steel or 'glass, its gonna look like this - in other words, without getting up close all you'll see is a dark void ! And ... depending on your choice of air cleaners you'll probably need to hack into the rear structure.

Agree with the above. As long as there no "significant" additional power draw on the passenger side of the firewall you'll be fine. That means NO stereo, fuel pump, efi, etc.. HOWEVER, as the engine compartment won't be stock once you add efi, you could add a circuit breaker in the alternator...

Since this is a "Tanks Inc" tank, it probably doesn't have the stock type vent lines installed in it. So ... Run the hose from the tank nipple to where the stock tank vent line would attach. Forget the roll-over.

It would be worth calling Tanks Inc about this one: https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=811/mode=prod/prd811.htm?srsltid=AfmBOooDZcJAqERUoxSVi4RVN_qE46hLTM9WtgMRubLRbEvmOHLFQJty

My point is that the rollover is "optional". The system will still work with the factory setup (I have an "in tank" pump in my 69 RR - using the stock vent with no rollover). The purpose of the vent is primarily to allow air to replace the fuel as its used. Venting the fumes is just an evil...

Keep in m ind the rollover is open to atmosphere and will vent fumes. So you want that OUTSIDE the vehicle - not in the trunk. Since the filler is so high on the Charger, if you fill your tank right to the top then yes, it would pour out the rollover if it isn't at least that high. How does...

There's nothing wrong with good ol' drum brakes on our old Mope's! I only did the front swap on mine because '69 rotors, calipers and parts are virtually unobtainable.

Here's your "kit" !!! https://www.allpar.com/d3/history/mopar/brakes/disc-main.html

What's a "fargen icehole"? And for what it's worth, this wasn't a kit, it's aĺl original Mopar parts !!! Do your research before you start bitchin' !!!!

All b bodies of that era.