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I'm pretty sure those are reproduced. A number of years ago I overheard a bunch of '66/7 gurus discussing reproducing them and the distribution channels. Check with Tony's Parts

Must be hydraulic roller

Nobody.

Absolutely. And there's no standard thickness.

A set with a torrington bearing is certainly nice to have. Take a look at the Australian brand Rollmaster. Also, they sets with oversized sprockets to take up slack as a result of line boring, etc.. "Replacement parts available: Seals, Torrington Bearings, Shims, Oil Pump Spacers &...

There's always "that guy" !!!

Duh !! Of course ... they only get pinched around the mounting bolts. Anyway, you got my 2 cents, I'm outta here !

To add to my post, I had the case machined and bushing installed then built the box with 18-spline internals. The first issue was the front bearing retainer. Although both use the 308 bearing, the bolt pattern is different between the two retainers. Next issue was the missing reverse detent...

Buddy, stick with what you have. If they aren't worn on the pads then there is no reason to waste money on a swap. As far as the shafts being overtightened, it honestly does not take much with stock shafts. In fact, just taking them on and off a couple times will do the trick. And besides...

Significantly inferior to an iron case. As mentioned the countershaft is "floating" - not a press fit. As a result the front bore got significantly enlarged over time which led to gear mesh issues. I had planned to use one once and had a steel sleeve installed in the front. The machinist said...

OP needs '69 apparently !!

The Cranes had wear issues back in the mid-seventies. That was the first bad set I'd seen on a buddy's '70 440 RR. It has nothing to do with age, you get a good set or you don't - simple as that! The few the OP has look just fine. Knock of the scare tactics and conspiracy theories !!

This is bullshit! What do you mean the "ends are larger diameter" ? How do you suppose they got the rockers on ?!?!? What I "think" you have are pieces of **** stock rockers that have been overtightened to the point they are now oval. Cut the shafts in half, remove the rockers and get a new...

If you do a lot of metal work then you need it totally walled off from where your cars are. You want to contain the dust, smoke and sparks. And if you do a lot of welding , invest in a smoke extractor AND a good mask. As for shop layout ... lots of electrical outlets at 4' height. Lots of air...

I don't think it will be a problem then.

And note that the ENTIRE front end metal alignment is dependent on those brackets being in the right place !!!

I hope you bought the AMD ones, the other ones are crap and will take a day of massaging to fit decent !!

Common issue when new guides are pressed in. Now you have to wonder how far that crack goes and does it extend into water passages.

The welds in the yellow area are only to secure the two pieces of the bracket together. The other welds you circled in green are the inner fender to bracket welds. See the yellow arrows in the second photo. Are you replacing the brackets or just the inner fenders?

Of course the shafts will be shiny on the bottom side - that's where all the pressure is. Before taking them off did you check to see if any were loose when the lifter is on the base circle? Is it a solid or hydraulic cam? At this point I think you've gone too far, you have to reinstall the...