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I haven’t gotten around to doing my car yet. I plan to order from Bergman Autocraft. I used to really love edelbrock shocks, hope these work similar. Another good upgrade I’ll pass along is the ford ball joint style sway bar links. Cheap and easy.

Found it

I got mine from mopar mall. It has the correct size return orfice. Somewhere I have a pic of the two in the market. One has a huge orfice that will lower your pressure. I’m sure all places source from same factory, so if 521 has the correct size it’s fine. IIRC it’s .060 and looks more pointed...

Id ditch that deal. Hook the tank vent back up. Run a good spacer under carb. That mess of rubber line is a leak waiting to happen when that stuff splits. I never ran a separator on a 383.

How many amps does this need? Could you run it off the gutted ballast? I’ve seen a piggy back spade that slips on a male end and gives you two spades to use. That would give you a clean install.

So many “professionals” out there jack these cars around and it can be really hard to find all their mistakes at once. The more you drive, the more bubbles to the surface. It’s taken three years of my free time to unwind all the dumb stuff on my latest car. I still talk to the guy I bought it...

My real world experience, as always, outweighs any and all useless subterfuge you put out there. You always speak in high minded circle talk, void of any useful knowledge. It’s obvious to anyone with a functioning brain what different size carbs do in these engines the very first trip out. You...

It might not pull up that high and use the extra cfm much with manifolds. Would be nice if somebody in your area had a carb or two to try out. Some headers help hp more than others. Most give you big gains in torque.

A 383 will wind on out to 5500 no problem at all. Mine with factory hp cam in my last car seemed to go to more like 5700 before it was done. I was running a 4 speed and 3.23s in that car. Yours should pull up there plenty quick with the 3.91. Do you have headers or manifolds?

You might just find a counterfeit. As somebody that has actually ran several carbs on a 383, a 3310 750 will work like magic. There I said it. So will a factory 750 avs. I’m sure the avs2 in 800 will be fine. Only mopar guys hand wring about carb size. Running tiny straw like heads and are...

Sounds like you did a good rundown and caught it along the way. I’ve had junk get in and hold the floats open, never to the degree of running over the carb though. On shafts, when they get real bad it causes and hanging idle as they get the blades caught in the bores.

Good new drums are getting hard to find. Nos is outrageous, to the point I’d rather do a conversion.

Is this to save the bit of work to just pound out the Lca? Bfh to lca. Done.

Somebody used to sell them in MCG. I haven’t seen them in there in over a decade.

These vanity projects he has do nothing to further understanding or generate better discussions. It’s a bunch of word soup and if you really bother to pay attention, not much of any value is said in the messes.

Bumble bees can’t fly, a 750 will drown your 383 too.

I understand getting started with what’s on hand. Makes sense. Now that you’re ready, get the bigger carb. The factory put a 750 on the 440hp. A 700 is a total bottleneck on a built engine.

Being rated about half of vacuum is the ballpark. Drive it and see how it does. Should be ok. Easy enough to go to 6s or 8s if you want to keep playing with it. The springs are a trial and error thing beyond the about half vacuum deal.

I’ve got a 69 model avs, thanks. Going to this manifold on stock engine to shed some weight. I’m not used to having ac and it just plain drives heavy.

Does this use the flat style like a 69 440 or the bubbled up later one? Or???