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Well there she is folks the 10 cent paperclip jumper fix. Terminals R, B2 and H are now one. I call it an informed hack. Works like a charm and I even have a proper dimmer switch since that jumper wasn't required. There was never a dimmer problem. The middle position of my tri state light...

Marked up the wiring diagram. B1 is definitely hot, coming from a splice that includes the Alt battery post (Red). B2 has to be live to finish the tail lights circuit containing the fuse (Blue) R has to be live for the body wiring for the tail lights (Yellow) The dimmer is inline with the...

Ok here is me testing the old switch (the new one behaves identically). I'm taking a guess here that: B1 is main Power H is Headlights B2 is to Dimmer P, R ???? So I could run a bypass from H to B2 to "hack" a solution at least for driving purposes but I'd much rather figure out what is...

Pretty stuck on this problem. I just replaced the headlight switch and my dimmer switch is bypassed (the connector is jumped). If I fully engage the headlight switch to "on" I lose the dash and running lights. If I back off a hair from its full engagement it works. But that's not a fix...

Here is a video of the coupler play. I see the dowel pin and roll pin is still there so I'm guessing its not unsafe?

So its the coupler. There is a bit of play between the shaft and the coupler and the noise is coming from the coupler. I need to drive this car at least another hour before pulling the shaft. Any risk?

Hi driving today I started to hear / feel an occasional click when turning and I’m seeing maybe 1mm of vertical play on the whole shaft where the pin is if I pull the steering wheel. Pic is not my column just a reference. Are my bearings going? Thoughts?

You Mopar guys want to send me a Mopar fender cover I promise all future videos to feature it prominently :)

That's the GTX fender and I have Mustangs as well as the Mopar.

why not. What do you suggest

at :48 - :51 you can see I fully seat the thing and it pops right off. The other connector "likes" the plug just fine. You'll never get a positive lock in using that connector on these plugs. I'm going to source some new MSD connectors and 85's and make sure they lock before redoing the wire.

China strikes again. Posted video under electrical / ignition because the issue really belongs there. At least my GTX isn't hurt.

Maybe this will help someone. Cause of plug wires falling off my GTX. MSD Superconductor 8.5's and Autolite 85's.

I have welcome news. Plug boot 5 was loose. Stethoscope was useful. I though it was cylinder 7 but when I pulled that boot it only got louder. Checked #5 boot seating and it went away. So... this isn't the first time these MSD 8.5MM Superconductor boots have disconnected. Cylinder 7 wire...

I put the valve cover back on and ran it. Can't isolate it and the headers heat up so fast its ridiculous. Going to get a stethoscope probably should have one anyway!

Good idea on the exhaust. But wouldn't I feel a bad lifter? I can pull the rail and inspect the lifters and the cam lobes. What am I looking for regarding the lifter though?

My 440 has developed a tick and I’m not 100% sure it it’s a lifter issue. When I bump the motor and check each rocker with springs relaxed I really don’t see much of a variance in slop. I do have headers and I’m wondering if I’m confusing lifter noise with an exhaust leak? How should I proceed?

Why would someone "disagree" with my statement that online I see the emblems facing different directions in different cars? I'm asking for input not stating what the orientation should be?

Thanks for the help and beautiful car!

Anyone know what the screws look like for this wood grain? I can’t find a reference