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These threads always end up revealing prices are way different all over the country.

cudaize is the one that does the rebuilds. He is sending me a date coded one right now. I was happy with the pics he sent of mine. He’s been selling on here for awhile.

We have a board member that rebuilds them and has cores. You could swap in a factory type one with ease for peace of mind and save this one as a known good spare. There are kits to up the amps if you need more juice than stock.

I don’t remember a black one, but the orange one was the Chapman bee. They had some cnc program for stage 6 heads. It ran a 9.95 in the hot rod magazine shootout, was told to add some weight and it went low 10s. That car belonged to a moparts memeber as of 8-10 years ago. That guy said the car...

I need to check in with him on these. I sent him this and didn’t hear back so I suppose it’s his heavy spring sports uniform season keeping him busy. I usually get something back same day.

I’m looking for a starter core or even a decent working one from August to first week of Dec 68. Could use one earlier, but going before August would be pushing it according to Dave wise. I believe one 2095219 or 2875553 would be the part number. Send pm.

Vacuum. I’d call Halifax hops, have him build you one custom, he tests them and gives you the sheet. Parts are known to be good before they go on your car. He’s a member here.

Is that bar made for the 70 up k?

I always found my four speed cars to have a little engagement feel that let my hand know I had it right. First and third have a slightly different feel to me. It’s subtle. I sold my last four speed cars to a young guy, was maybe 20 I think. I showed him how to row the gears on the edge of town...

We put the Topher gear in my motor. I was afraid the NOS ones would get brittle over time.

I found him to do a wiper motor. I made a post asking about him and ended up updating it to say things went well. Not sure how his name is just now coming up in the hobby. He has a superbird.

I dunno what all happened in this post, but I’ve run the edelbrock pump on two engines and they worked really well. Plan to use on a third soon. The Mr gasket stat could be an issue. I’ve seen many reviews stating they were junk. Find an old high flow robertshaw. I understand Flowkooler makes...

I forgot to add the odyssey ones say something about being “dual core” so they are both a deep cycle and a starting battery. They also like the system to run at 14.5+ and not sag under that. I figured that would be good with the auto stop start deal in my daily. I made it five years on the...

I use an Odyssey group 34. It doesn’t need to be trickle charged and can sit two years without a charge. It’s lightning on first crank of the spring. The daily driver has one too, just the spec it called for. You can order them direct a bit cheaper than Autozone. I’ve been really happy with them.

I’ll add that about five years ago, either Mopar Action or MCG featured a car that had its original warranty booklet. It was noted those have a hand written date in them from the assembly line and that is the only way to know the exact date your car was built for sure.

If you mean a pattern on other cars, especially survivors, that’s what I’m looking for here. Only thing I know of on my car is the intake. Carb is correct number, I never did follow up on its date code. Wiper motor is a 75 that I’m replacing with the unit dated six weeks before. Alt had a big...

Sounds good. Do you have it? I can narrow down the history to CA and then CO. At least 48 states are off the table, in theory.

While most of us on these boards are at least loosely aware of the SPD not being exact, that’s a tough sell when things like your intake has a date right in it a week before the car was built. Then the question of how long would any grace period be? A week, a month, a year? Besides, even if...

My starter has died. Need a date coded one. How far before should it be? I found a wiper motor Six weeks out and called it good enough. I found one starter about three months before.

I don’t know much about lithium ones, but the odyssey paperwork says it’s sealed and does not corrode the terminal. This one looks like it is fully sealed too.