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Your screwdriver or bypass starter button takes the place of the yellow wire 12 volts to the starter relay coil so no need to do anything there. Have a GREAT DAY!

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Yes you are correct. Connecting the two yellow wires routes 12V to the starter relay coil. When the neutral safety switch supplies the ground path at the same time, starter should activate. Ign 1 and 2 are needed via other circuits to develop ignition.

Sounds like lacking ground on starter relay coming from the neutral safety switch.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I'd expect the fusible link to be a slow blowing device not a fast blow fuse type. There are slow-blow style glass fuses available so keep that in mind. According to the chart posted earlier and other postings, a slow-blow fuse rated just below wire size would be...

It would be interesting to see how well the hidden GM style ignition module faired out mounted directly to the bulkhead. VERY important that the module has a generous amount of heatsink compound between it and the mounting surface. You might also cut out some of the stock ECU case sides and...

You are 100% correct thinking the two wires might be RUN 1 and 2. Since the ballast in not used the two voltages feed the ignition module and E-Core coil directly. Remember back in the late 70s all the GM HEI distributors having ignition modules burning out frequently? Final cause was...

Here is how I have my GM HEI wired into my "74 SE. Never experienced the run on you speak of. Hope that helps

Current pulled (not pushed) through old wiring is always something to be aware of. As long as some really power hungry drain is NOT being added that usually in not an issue. Think of the alternator as a huge source of current. It will only supply the amount required by the loading device. A...

Your stock 65 amp alternator does all you want off idle so why spend the $$$ for more unused capability. Yes some modern units put out better at idle but how often do you set idling... As you said until the a/c is used the levels are OK so maybe an idle speed boost while a/c is on is the...

I'm also confused about the servo and cycling switch terminology. Can't make heads or tails about the diagrams posted. Maybe what my Classic Auto Air system has in not what either of you are talking about. I have the firewall forward upgrade system so all the OEM inside pieces and parts are...

MY BAD.... Never seen any automotive a/c system that did not shut off power to the clutch when in the off mode. Can you please educate us?

OP says when he activated a/c the idle drops. One would think that means the compressor only runs with a/c "ON" You are correct in that most solenoids do not have the power to press the accelerator but I've never seen one not hold once allowed to activate when the engine comes off idle.

Yes that is about the most convenient location to pick up the power you are wanting. If you are concerned about overloading that circuit, you could use that compressor power line to trigger a relay that would then feed 12V to the solenoid. I don't know if the fuse protecting the compressor...

Just a guess but I would say five gallons should be enough. Since you are putting it on stands, take the gas out while the car in on the ground. When you jack it up, set the front end a couple inches higher than the rear.

From what I've seen those splices are not just a bunch of wires taped together. Don't know what that weld process is called but it looks like some sort of weld to me.

I'd try Mineral Spirits on the blue stuff. Soak it down real good and let it set a couple minutes.

Gages and turn signals are two separate power levels but originate coming out of the ignition switch at the same place. As said earlier, that connector at the steering column is the first place I'd check. Should be fairly easy to run down fault with a volt/ohm meter (VOM) and the factory...

Back in post #6 AR67GTX touched on something as simple as the light switch in wrong position, sending power to the dash lights. Never read any indication the OP or anyone else even read that post or if the OP did read it if he double checked the status of the light switch.

Do you have any accessories connected to the battery or starter relay? The current draw from those will give you that exact indication. All accessories should be connected to the alternator feed side of the ammeter.