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Finally coming back to this thread. So I got the new Ignition box and no surprise it didn't help. I went through and temporarily wired the switched wire for the sniper unit to the battery to rule out any sort of issue there with voltage drop and whatnot. I took some more datalogs which I've...

Just ordered a new ignition box, hopefully that's all I gotta do. Kinda wanted to replace it anyway so I won't be too heartbroken when it doesn't fix it

I'll start with the ECU since ive had the coil for a while now and I don't believe it had this problem before I switched over to the electronic distributor + components...now to figure out which replacements worth a damn

Tried it and nothing changed, still not liking the rpms ☹️

It's not required, you can still run it with the "factory" distributor, just can't control the timing via the sniper system. For the ignition box I've got the orange box that came with the distributor and for a coil I have the "ACCEL 8140C Ignition Coil" that I put on in 2020. As far as...

Just a little jump starter? Yea I could hook it up and try, might have time for that tonight even

That's usually where my batterys have sat over the past 3 years from restoring the car right at 12.3-12.5V. Went through a battery from a bad alt messing up the first one. I've got the + and - for the Sniper going straight to the battery posts

Just before cold starts when I check I'm at 12.3V so I don't believe the battery is bad. Charging is fine as well throughout the rpm range

Okay for starters, I've got a 69 charger 440 with the Proform mopar electronic distributor and Holley Sniper EFI. Everything works as it should up until I stomp on the gas. The car pulls up until about 3500rpm to where the car starts jerking terribly. I got a datalog from my sniper system to...

It's left bank (drivers side if I'm thinking wrong) I just put a new cam in it but it also doesn't seem to happen when I'm off idle so I don't think I wiped a lobe? I'll be able to start looking into it here in the next couple days.

I forgot to mention it has a Holley sniper system on it so no carb. That being said my afr is 13-14 at idle if i remember correctly.

Heading pretty much explains it, it does shake the car a little but it's less of an actual pop and more feels like extra air coming out of the exhaust. I have developed an exhaust leak right after my cutouts that I believe is the culprit for lean popping (actual popping unlike this idle pop) on...

Oil was vr1 20w-50 with a zinc additive as well and not sure about spring pressure. The springs were from when my dad Rebuilt the engine years back. Pretty much stock springs if I remember correctly. It had a purple cam before if that helps

Will do. Timing was at 35 degrees at roughly 2k rpm. Little too cold and dark at the moment to drive on the road, can that be done a different time or needed now?

Okay, I don't wanna accidentally wipe a lobe so any insight would be greatly appreciated.. I'm breaking in a new Comp-Cams 270h in my 440. Between oil leak and a random fuel starvation I've ran the engine for a total of a little over 22 minutes. BUT it was not all at once. Like 10 minutes then...

Sorry! Haven't replied for a while. The ticking noise has yet to come back and I found out that when I put the manifold back on it didn't seal correctly so I had a wicked vacuum leak causing the almost supercharger like whine. The only thing I can think of that the ticking was being caused by...

There are no words to describe how confused I am... The ticking is no longer there and I have yet to do anything extra to solve the problem, just rolled the car oht and fired it up to start diagnosing. However I still have a couple problems, the squeal that I thought is a vacuum leak is still...

Funny enough the alternator is a replacement because the last one started making a squeal and eventually lost its ability to charge. That being said this sounds different than that noise, you can hear it in this video once I get to the engine bay area. Thanks for input on all of the...

I'll check these Hopefully tonight. For what it's worth the noise does seem to be coming from the top end and not the bottom side of the engine.

Don't believe it is a leak, the noise is more of a metallic sliding than a tick or clink. I did check if any bolts were loose on the headers before taking apart the engine and none were loose, even then I gave them a little extra before firing back up