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Correct! No spark without grounds! A separate ground to the starter would still make sense imo as it has the biggest current draw.

Out of curiosity: why is the main connection of the negative battery post to the engine and not directly to the starter motor and the alternator (= isolated ground)? Those are afaik the only two items that need grounding through the block (and some sensors that ground through the block like oil...

What about the heater core and evaporator? Can you hook it up to pressurized air, submerge it in water, and see if there are any bubbles?

Haha, good one! No idea why the picture was flipped upside down when uploading it - on my phone its oriented correctly

Yeah, will do. Can take a few days though.

Great! Just what I needed! I'll compare it to my c-body bracket and see what mods are needed to use it in a b-body.

I drilled a 2" hole on the passenger side just below the A/C heater box. Unfortunately no better picture but you can see the heater box rubber grommet. From there I ran the wires to the driver side under dash vent where I mounted the computer. No picture of the mounted ECU but I made a...

@DeltaV Hi Wayne, I need these measurements (A,B,C,D,E). For D you can ignore the step, just stay on the level of the flat side where mounting holes are if you know what I mean. Thank you very much, greatly appreciated!

Very cool and long overdue! Did you use Ford fuel pump sending unit terminals?

So what are the greatest pitfalls you'd say or what things should be done which isn't in the service manual? Or what made your last engine you built the best (if you care to share)?

Actually the reason for the intended mods is performance related not about gasket sealing. I assume it reduces turbulence below the carb. Hughes once offered the modification.

Another option would be to use epoxy to fill the cavities. Or shape an aluminum piece and glue/epoxy it to the manifold. Is this maybe a better option?

What precautions do I have to take if I want to weld on an aluminum intake manifold? I'd like to fill the spread bore pattern on a Holley Street Dominator (make it a square bore). Is it sufficient to bolt on a steel plate to the carb pad (basically a thick gasket shaped plate) to avoid warping...

Gotcha. I'll just buy hydraulics and remove the spring..

WTF??? Hydraulic lifters set is $114 and solid lifter set is $2000? What is Comp smoking? For that price difference I'll make the hydraulics solid...

Would you mind sharing how to make your own tops? How do you make the seams? Where do you buy the correct material?

Was talking about the left/right alignment not the up/down. The rocker bodies hit the pedestal (no shim used) and were still off from the valve stem - no way I could have centered it without removing material somewhere (rocker body or pedestal).

Have the 240 version of the heads and the same rockers. Used different hold-downs (B3RE) as I encountered the same issue. The bigger issue though was that the roller tips were not centered on the valve tips! I had to machine down the rocker bodies to properly center them (either the rocker...

Thanks again! These pictures are great! I only need to figure out the axle mount as I want to use the same ball joint end links you posted above - in order to do so the sway bar eye should be level to the the axle. Have to check but maybe I have to move the axle mount closer to the axle itself...

These pictures are great and I like how you did the axle bracket - looks factory to me! As for the end links, have you thought about using heim joints for the axle attachments? Or would this transmit too much noise/vibration to the body? Anyways your post will effectively raise the demand for...