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I added (brazed) a bung to the radiator just above the fins so the probe is in the water. Reason was that the radiator temperature should trigger the e-fan, not the WP housing temperature (before vs. after thermostat). Temperature gauge is hooked up to the WP housing though.

It seems that not a lot can be done.. Here's what the library of Congress has to say about it: "Once paper becomes brittle, very little can be done to strengthen it so that items can be safely handled. The accepted traditional method is to line a document with thin, stable, translucent...

Great! That confirms the 1.5" and 1.75". Missing length is 3 3/8" then. Thank you!

I found the dimensions here - at least sort of as the picture resolutions is quite bad. I can read 1.5" and 1.75" distance between left and right but not how far apart upper and lower bolts are .. @rbkt65 can you help? please help identify these spring hangers

Does anyone have the bolt pattern for the front spring hanger for a 68-70 Charger? I assume 66-70 B-body should all have the same pattern.. Thanks!

Should be a brake booster for a Hemi car... iirc the 3/8 studs are Hemi only!

You could try and run an angle adapter such as this one:

Found these on ebay: Engine Intake Manifold For Chrysler Dodge Plymouth RB 6.8L 7.0L 7.2L 413 426 440 | eBay Looks like another China copy.. tbh casting looks nice though.

That's pretty clever! Do you have a picture showing the lowered radiator?

How do you deal with engine movement? Don't the NASCAR cars have some sort of leather strips between the air cleaner and the firewall?

Just took that photo off the internet, not my LCA

yes, you are right. Maybe I wasn't clear enough but I would only remove maybe half of that section. I could also use delrin bushings which should be much stronger anyways

yeah, I looks quite close. Will have to put the Charger on my lift to see how cllse it really is. No point in losing the sway bar. I would not pursue my idea any further if it involves any drastic changes but if it would mean to just trim the k-member then why not?

Thanks but this is just a theoretical discussion about the poly LCA bushing. Lets please leave the UCA options out of it (I appreciate that you all want to help me but again, I'd like to discuss my idea only).

If you shave off the black part you could move the LCA half an inch or so forward..

Maybe but lets focus on the LCA bushing for a moment, I'm well aware of the UCA option ;)

Just came to my head: Would it be possible to get more caster if you take a poly LCA bushing and cut off some material of the tapered section? The LCA would move closer to the K-frame which should give you more caster.. Obviously you need adjustable strut rods to make this work. Am I missing...

Does anyone know what type of steel was used for the different parts other than sheet metal? I'm talking about suspension, steering etc. For example the strut rods and shifter rods (on a 4-speed) are much harder than regular steel.

Does anyone have a LCA lying around and could measure what's the diameter of the strut rod hole? I need to know how much play is normal (strut rod measures .628 diameter). And also the width of the hole. Thanks!

Hi, I have another request if you don't mind: how long is the smooth part that goes through the LCA? Thanks!