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I read your initial post. You did say the linkages were not binding. I just went through this. I looked at everything. Even thinking the weights in the Dist were hanging up changing the timing after a higher RPM....giving different timing at idle. The culprit were the secondarys. After...

Had this before...is was the transmission cover....the bolts were striking it ever so slightly. Remove it to try.

Manifold to exhaust head ? I have had that as well. Could see the exhaust on the block.

80W90 gear oil. I use the ford friction modifier.

Looking to make my Throttle return Spring and Kickdown linkage spring correct for my 69 440 Charger. From what's for sale out there I believe the throttle return to be grey...still not sure about the kickdown linkage. Can anyone help me interpret the parts manual and the correct part number on...

I was wondering who was going to pick up on that. Well done! lol The dyno was done with the stock AVS as well...Just not video'ed....I have the sheet...it was like 8 less HP.

Are you suggesting I switch something up? Assuming that when I bump up the initial timing to 18 degrees I should also change the FBO plate to the slot labeled16 degrees?

Thanks for the relies! Yes...VA connected to Ported as Turbine said. Looks like that I can try to advance it a bit more at idle and see what happens with the stumble. The plate will still limit it at 34 degrees. On the dyno 34 is where it made the most power I think. I do know that dyno...

So an update... First I want to thank everyone for all of their help. I am a relatively young guy at this...mid 40's...but have always loved restoring old things back to original. Started with Gumball machines from the 30-50's, then vending machines, off to 1930's Johnson Outboards, late 70's...

Headers....the trade off is a few more HP...for many many fitment problems. IMO

I have no doubt the springs are correct. It's a fresh dist from Hallifaxhops all tested and curved.

So...an update. When I got home I took the distributor out, cleaned and regressed the weight pins, and all of the areas that would be rubbing. Has a light and heavy spring. The heavy spring has the bigger loop on one end, so the weight with the heavy spring swings open first and is free to...

Any other ideas?

No Pad. Heat Riser Flap removed.

Fuel pressure....no idea. no way to read it. I just have the stock fuel mechanical pump. Wasn't an issue before. Yes...I have power brakes...with the high idle I have then removed the booster hose and capped it. No change. Again...only occurs after engine is warmed up nice and not after...

Good Day All, In need of some guidance. As the title says....been fighting with a 440 to get it right. It's a newly built engine in the last year or so. A little bit of porting, comp cam #21-223-4. Nothing too crazy. Stock Heads. The engine ran good, not perfect...a stumble off the line...

ok....Yes....Turbine 68RT now we are getting to my point! Which was is correct? Tang below the bracket and free floating, or sandwiched between the arm and the keyed end of the choke rod? This is the answer that I have been seeking. Every picture i see online is the tang below the arm and...

Yes...the carter 45. I have both an original with all the markings and a repop with just the 45. "The rod is directly connected to the bracket and coil end"......this is the part i am not understanding. I will have to have a look again when I get home. Maybe I am messed up here. It was my...

Dragonslayer and Turbine.... I know you guys are the experts....have a look at the pic I attached.... In the pic....the tang is "below" the bracket that is attached to the rod. When the spring heats and the tang moves downward it's not attached to the bracket...the tang moves down...

RT Boy....That would make sense according to the tang on the choke. "the springs tang moves down and "allows" the choke to open". It does not pull it down.