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This thread was not posted by me and has been reported. Someone logged into my account from Pakistan via VPN. Admin is aware. I'll be checking recent action from my profile and post/delete as many scam threads as I can find. To top it off, the a$$hole deleted all my PMs so all the info I've...

Still for sale, cleared my pm box.

No, it didn't loosen.

This thread was not posted by me and has been reported. Someone logged into my account from Pakistan via VPN. Admin is aware. I'll be checking recent action from my profile and post/delete as many scam threads as I can find. To top it off, the a$$hole deleted all my PMs so all the info I've...

This thread was not posted by me and has been reported. Someone logged into my account from Pakistan via VPN. Admin is aware. I'll be checking recent action from my profile and post/delete as many scam threads as I can find.

Been searching for this part for about a week now. No luck. Thank you for the heads up. We'll continue to search screen

Update: My headlights are working, but the right side of my dash is still dark. Definitely not the fuse as removing R&Ring it has ALL lights going out, then the right side coming back, as expected. I can see *most* of the speedo, then nothing to the right, other than the radio. New development...

Check twecomm's post for how to check for a draw.

I've actually never really paid attention to the ammeter went the car isn't running. I'll have to pay attention. I'm pretty sure it's dead center, since nothing is going on (all lights off, sitting on car). My EFI will draw a bit with the key on, of course.

I used to DC the battery and it was fine. I was just concerned about the charging system since I had trouble after jump starting.

I'll try tomorrow. Thank you

No clock. OEM radio that lights up but not sure if it works otherwise. Ammeter is centered but occasionally moves 1/2-1 needles width towards the alternator side.

Oooooh. Thank you! Will check.

I searched this forum for half a day. Forgive me if I'm blind and missed a similar thread. I'll try to keep this as short as possible: When I let the car sit for a week or more the battery is completely dead. Like zero to where my portable charger not tender can read enough signal to turn on...

Perfect, thank you. I believe I'm on the right track with the part number suggested above.

I have that part on order, just in case. Looks like I can run the switched power source from the spot on my PDM where the sniper ECU gets it. I can run ground to the same. Then I use the sniper tach wire into the converter then out to my gauge cluster. I hope it's that simple. I don't have an...

At some point, in a random thread, I THINK someone helped me out with this, but can't find the info after two days of searching. 1969 Dodge Charger Sniper EFI Hyperspark distributor Hyperspark coil Hyperspark (CDI) ignition box Sniper PDM Rallye dash with OEM tachometer There is no tach...

I knew it! Lol. I figured that's why the previous owner used an alternator with this pulley on it. Thanks for the heads up.

Because whether a car has AC or not, I'd *assume* the alternator belt lines up and runs on the same plane in relationship to the crank pulley, being a double groove alternator or single (not swapping pulleys, changing complete alternators). But like I said, I've been surprised many times with...

I just wanted to be sure a single has it's belt groove in the same place as the inner groove on the double. It 100% should, but I've been surprised by stranger things. Lol I'd order the single if I knew it would all work perfectly, the first time.