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Lol, didn't know that.:lol:

Check your fuel pump push rod, could be worn causing only a partial actuation of the fuel pump which causes lack of fuel when flooring it. It has a certain length which can be found on the internet, worth checking.

Does the carb have a choke plate installed? If the engine is cold and it can drive would indicate it can run on a rich mixture. You need to get those mixture screws going first so you can do some adjusting on it, it could be running very lean once warm.

It depends on the make/model/type converter and how it is designed. A stock converter will apply "drive force" at low rpm, for example a race type (high stall) converter will barely move the car at idle whereas a stock type will start pushing the car forward, or reverse at idle rpm's. This is...

That is a problem. Your converter puts too much load on the engine which is the reason your throttle blades are too far open and the carb does not react on mixture screw changes. You will need to source an additional way of adding air to the engine, either an adjustable PCV or make a fixed...

So when a load is applied things change for the worse, most things you mention are related to manifold vacuum, which relates to a change in timing due to the vacuum advance is changing things. You need to check your idle timing with vac. advance disconnected, once you know that, connect the...

Or, change the rear gearing for a 3.73 or higher.

If it would be lack of fuel at WOT it would stall or stumble, i had this happen due to a worn push rod on the pump and at WOT the engine sucked the fuel bowls empty and just goes nose down with a sputtering engine. The lean reading at WOT seems more related to carb jetting, increase the jet size...

IF holes need to be drilled you start on the primary throttle blades, obviously starting small and increase as required. Start with 0.040 - 0.050" and increase in small steps as it can make a big difference. When replacing throttle plates you have to pay close attention on their positioning in...

I took it a bit more "silent" approach... :)

With 3.23 gear gearing incl. a sure grip and having only 160 psi cranking pressure i think you will not spin those tires. That cam is a little large to give any push at low rpm. I believe the purple cam has 242* advertised duration, i have a similar cam, 4.10 rear gearing and 165 psi CP and...

I agree with that, i read more stories of people having more issues with alu aftermarket radiators than they found that their cooling system had become better.

I think the wiring diagram only shows the main harness and those colors, so after the plug could be different and are not indicated at the diagram. At least that was the thought i got, strange they change the colors after a connector. Unless either one is "not as original"?

Check your lower radiator hose to make sure that also gets hot, if not first put a new thermostat in try again. If that does not solve the overheating your radiator core could be (partially) blocked or there is very poor air flow going through. Even a externally dirty radiator would still have...

Just looking in the wiring diagram of my '69 Coronet, but the brown wire (Pin #8) as per this is for the rear lights turn signal. Could have a short in the rear light units on the turn signal bulb(s)

8.5 MSD super conductor plug wires, either engine specific set or the self made custom kit. (used both) Be sure to add the MSD Spark Guard dielectric grease and apply a little dab on each boot.

In case closing the mixture screws increase idle rpm your throttle blades are likely to far open as it is getting a lot of fuel (too much) from the transfer slots and the added fuel from the mixture screws fattens it up even more. You can pull a spark plug and check, will likely be black. In...

The factory spec of 650rpm idle is in Park or in gear? Sounds a little too low for Park idle, when putting it in gear the engine gets a load and would drop a little, so i would try and set it first to 750-800 rpm, doesn't hurt to try. Instead of adjusting the idle screw, try first by advancing...

In tank pump with integrated regulator @ 58 psi, no return needed. I am running one in an OEM style tank and works well.

Oil pressure ok? Have a reliable gauge? VR1 is good quality oil, but what viscosity did you use, mineral or synthetic?