Search results for query: *

Good tip, thanks.

I'd like to have my date code correct Carter carburetor restored. Who's the go to guy for a quality restoration?

And how about the GTX?

I ordered new headlight bezels from OER and the don't look like the ones I have or any photo I pull up on the web. They are painted with a dark textured argent silver paint. I think they should be light silver argent paint. Which is correct? This photo shows mine with the new bezel held in front.

On a 69 440 GTX, what's the correct factory color for the sway bar and the mounting brackets?

What do I need to do to get the instrument panel out so I can change the wiper switch on my 69 GTX?

All the online research I did said to put .020 between the boost push rod and master cylinder plunger. That's 100% wrong for my 69 GTX. I just thought people should hear the truth, there's too much wrong info out there.

And just a follow up, my brake system is finished and brakes work amazing. Perfect pedal feel using the .910 rod length. I would have had a mess and been doing it all over again had I believed the .020 gap method. That does NOT work on early Mopars!

That mc uses an e ring to positively locate the plunger. My mc just uses that retaining bolt on the bottom so the plunger doesn't fall out, lol. Thanks for the photo.

Not a problem, I've actually finally figured it out. I found this old Master Tech video on the operation of our Master Cylinders. Chrysler Master Tech - 1970 Volume 70-9 Brake Hydraulics The operation is basic of course, but, the video shows a couple photos of the primary and secondary pistons...

Do you still have the old booster, and if so, can you measure the pushrod?

No, there's .160 of push from the booster pushrod to get the plunger flush. So the master is preloaded by .160.

Yes, they both have an identical bolt. No damage to either one.

Here you go. The booster that's on the car has the pushrod screwed all the way in and .2 ground off the end. This modification gives me .020 clearance between the pushrod and master plunger. The rusty booster came on my car and the plunger is sitting about .940 in length. The two master...

Yes, of course, and I have a tool to measure mc depth and booster pushrod length. What do you need a picture of, a Mopar master and Bendix booster?

No, the pushrod was normally set to the longer dimension. I actually have two factory Bendix vacuum booster, both were set long. As I a mentioned, the only way to achieve a clearance between the plunger and pushrod is to screw the adjuster all the way in and grind .2 off of it.

I have two masters. I have the one that was a correct right port replacement that was on the car when I purchased it. The other master is a factory correct right port p/n 2226821 rebuilt by White Poat Restorations. Both have the same plunger depth of .750. If I use the fsm dimension of .910...

Yes, but after screwing it all the way in, it's still .160 too long to achieve a .020 gap. It's fine as is to achieve a .910 length.

I have 69 440 GTX with power disc/drum brakes with a Bendix vacuum booster. Do I use the .910/,920 push rod length that is shown in the Kelsey vacuum booster section of the FSM (no spec in the Bendix section) or, do I set a .020 gap between the booster push rod and master cylinder plunger? If I...

Remember to take the time to leave a product review to save others from this ridiculous poor quality product