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None... i am what i am...

Cast blast....

true but i did use it on my bumper brackets and it worked well.. i still had to chip off scale though, i don't think anything will remove scale.

Did my own alignment for the first time recently and am very happy with the outcome.. i had bad tire noise going over bumps (like sqeaking) that was from too much toe in... I used a small bubble gauge to do camber and twine and a tape measure for the toe-in.. car drives perfect with a straight...

that's kinda amazing

damn... soo much time into that duct.... lesson learned though. 8* was a lot

I had never heard of rust 911.. i'm glad i found this solution when i literally had 2 parts left to do after like 100 :)

Mine also get almost like a black slime but it comes right off under some water..

Thanks for posting the results :)

I really don't care what motor is in a car as long as it's cool... I would do a gen3 if i had the money or brains.. but i'm lacking on both sadly :)

I don't believe in restorations myself... build it for fun and how you want (if fun for you is a full on resto, cool) I personally like solid mechanicals... and build for beating the piss out of and enjoying :) Paint? 1 color and shiny.. but not too nice to make me cry if i scratch it.. Which...

You don't need to change the whole rear, you can just swap the axles if you feel you need to.. but once you get that off you should never have a problem again. I have 10.5"x30" ET Streets in the back of my 62 with the stock axle, i moved the springs in about 3/8" (just front hangers moved...

heat might work... but honestly... i would airgun the tool and keep hammering/tightening and at some point it will pop.... And sorry for all the posts, i figured you didn't know bout the whole tapered axle thing and were just prying on the drum :)

Also.. here is a thread about how to convert the hubs to use normal b-body drums.. nothing hard other than getting the proper studs.. basically drill out the old studs, remove drum.. hammer in new studs and done...

If it's a original '62 with a "Tapered axle" you need a special tool.. the drum doesn't come off the studs they are "Swedged" in.. you take the nut off the end of the axle and the hub/drum come off together... you can modify them to take normal drums after you get it apart.. i wish you were...

Yup.. saw that... and people NEVER go on tangents on these forums :)

The 3/8 to 1/2" is a big upgrade, if you want to do it here is a video with rick seaman going through the process and i believe he explains why to do it. P.S. don't try just wrapping it in tape or anything like that... only needs to suck a little air and you aren't sucking up oil anymore...

Amazing how a thread can turn into a shitshow for such a meh topic :) I'm actually surprised no one mentioned not running urethane LCA bushings..

That is annoying.. the monroes went right in on mine luckily