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If seller can't provide trusted flow numbers for them I would pass. Aluminum heads can be had for less than that.

440 source,sidewinder,Edelbrock E street,etc. for a typical flat tappet hot rod type build. If your heads are ready to go then use them unless you have cash to burn. If they need reworking then I would consider upgrading.

Fuel injection is nice. Also expensive (to me).Can always be added later. Pick the aluminum heads that are in your budget and available.Have them checked by a reputable shop. Any 750 will work.Style is up to you. Compression adjustment however it can be attained. Camshaft sounds a little rowdy...

I wish the six pak hood for the duster was more than 2.5" tall. I sure don't want the cowl hood.

Mancini Racing Centersection Have the large 7290 u joint listed as well. I would of course call and check availability.

Ambitious project! Roadkill put a gen 2 in a gremlin so anything is possible. A gen 3 would right at home and stay under the hood. Props to you for undertaking it. Me,stick a built 401 in it and hurt some feelings. Maybe a couple of 304 fender badges.

Welcome! You are already making dad proud. First I would asses what you have, what is usable and what is not as is. The more you can use/re-use the more $$$ available to spend on upgrades. I like a 400 engine. Low compression and all. Have one in my 72 Newport I hope to get around to one day...

If not looking for a correct restoration muffler then this dynomax is a nice fit IMO. Super Turbo™ - Centered / Offset - P/N: 17747

15x8 with 4.5 backspace should be good for the rear. Front would be 15x7 if it were mine but 15x6 will do fine. I like the wider front wheel on a heavy car. Figure out what rear tire you are going to run before you pick the fronts. That way you end up with the ride height you want. Wheels are...

Maybe have the heads checked over? For what it cost to redo the valve job and throw some 1.74 exhaust valves in there you could likely buy a set of 440 source aluminum heads and paint them engine color. Not suggesting that if you don't want more power but food for thought. Aluminum intake...

So which castings are these?

What lobe separation on the cam? Find a 400 block and store the original if you are worried about messing it up. The manifolds make it harder to make good HP so build for torque. A 3.75 stroke with the 383 or a 3.91 stroke for a 400 block will work very well and not be as short on rpm as a 4.25...

I would have picked them up at that price and had them checked for proper taper.

You can always use glass packs unless you are going for correct appearance. If you are happy with it as is don't bother.

Purely guessing here but likely due to reducing noise. I thought they used them in front of the machine gun tips but could be mistaken. I am pretty sure E bodies came with them as well.

I would stick with whatever configuration you have now so you don't have any issues lining up the tailpipes. That being said mopars usually run offset in/ center out.

With that cam I would probably go 1.6 rockers to work the trick flow heads a little bit more. I just put trick flow 240's on my 505 when my Edelbrock heads needed more repair than could be done in a timely manner. I took the years old Harland Sharp rockers that came with my used E heads and...

I think it will do what you want it to.Should cruise without bucking,spitting,or jerking and have plenty of torque so you won't "need" a high stall converter. 550-575 HP.

Will work fine so long as you have the right backspace wheel and wide enough for the 295. That is a big tire. I always went with 275/60/15 and 225/70/15 on my 71-4 B bodies.