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By all means run the stock one if you want to.It is free,paint it and go. If you ran across a performer or ld340 for a deal then pick one up.It can be painted to look stock.
A good performance valve job and some new valve springs if they are old doesn't cost much more than a stock valve...
Big thing is if you are running a thermoquad you need a spread bore intake. Edelbrock Performer may be the easiest to find. Make sure the ports are opened up fully to match your heads.
[FOR SALE] - Vintage 727 11in 2500rpm Torque converter (New in box) San Jose, CA.
This would be hard to beat for $$$ unless you can go to a local trans shop/parts store and order a stock converter for a 69 roadrunner with a 383.
or
1969 PLYMOUTH ROADRUNNER 6.3L 383cid V8 Torque Converter |...
Unless you have plans to upgrade your power level or run low gears with slicks and high stall converter on the regular. the 8 3/4 is plenty stout.
My 73 Charger was a 4000lb pig with 525hp and 4.10 gears that made many a pass with drag radials and my 8 3/4 never blinked.
Dana 60 is buy once...
Years ago I ran 15x7 front with 225/70r15 and 15x8 rear with 275/60r15 on my 73 Charger.
On a 7" rear wheel I would stick to no wider than 255/60r15 if it were mine.
I let two cars and a truck go in the last 5 years because I was burned out on them and couldn't buy either back for what I sold them for. I could have finished two of them for what I have put in to my Duster.It isn't finished either and will likely never get painted (I am okay with). Getting...
I think 500's would be more responsive on the street. Now if you had ported heads,compression,gears,and a stall I would say 600's for "hot" street.
Edit; I never knew the 500's were that bad. 600's for the win.
Anything in the 650-750 range with a vacuum secondary should perform well. Not aware of an avs in 700cfm.I would double check the part number. I like double pumpers personally but with a 383 automatic and assuming no more than a 3.55 gear I would opt for a vacuum secondary if it were mine.